Overheating/Coolant issues
Winching
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 605
Likes: 1
From: Shoreline, WA
When I got home from work yesterday, I bled the system as per the instructions I found from Disco Mike on here, after putting around 5 litres in, no more would go in and nothing was coming out of the bleeding hole. I carried on as per the instructions still, putting the bleeding screw back in, cap on and then letting the engine idle until warm with the heating turned up full until warm. I proceeded to take the car from where it was parked up to my house about 30min drive. When I got home I popped the bonnet and found coolant leaking from the top of the radiator, it seems to be coming through the screw hole as per the attached pic's, with the engine on it pumps out at quite a rate and their was evidence of leaking from this area before. I hope this is the cause of all my problems and not the head gasket, its annoying as I only had the radiator replaced 6 months ago and about 2 weeks after it was replaced I was left stranded on the beach as one of the hoses hadn't been tied back properly by the mechanics i'd used and had been worn through by the fan!!!
Banned
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 4
I have only tried the bg products, so I can not say yay or nay on the k-seal.
You have to shake the heck out if the BG bottle as its seriously plant roots ground up
I also noticed that if you just pour it into the reservoir that it really just settles to the bottom and it becomes a pain to actually get into the system. So the best method I have found is a complete drain of the old coolant, then you pour in 1 gallon of coolant and then the bottle of BG and the the rest of the coolant as it will push the BG on down. Start the truck and let it run for a while to move the BG through out the entire system. If your lucky and the leak is small enough you & BG will win! if not the the BG was $12 and the coolant was close to $30 so it was a $42 chance. But if it works then the table turns and you may go another 20k or 5k you know its really just a gamble. THE ONLY CORRECT REPAIR IS TO CHANGE THE HEAD GASKETS.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,462
Likes: 32
From: Duxbury MA
That leak is the exact same one that I had, except mine was at 90,000 miles. And after having just replaced mine, I can say for sure that Bkreutz is correct. Those are not the proper screws for those holes, and by using the incorrect screws they cracked your tank. On my radiator, I backed out the screw, dried up the hole as best I could, squeezed in a buch of RTV and the reinstalled the screw. It held for a week with no leaks until I was able to replace the radiator. A similar approach may work temporarily in your case so you can drive it back the shop and get them to fix it on their dime.
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Overlanding
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
I suspected that the scr ews that were used would have more than likely been the wrong ones!! I'll see what I can do to hit them up for a replacement. It was a britpart radiator that I used, looks like i'll be replacing again, flushing the system and so on.
Thanks for the help,
Tommy
Thanks for the help,
Tommy
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Overlanding
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Hi there,
Just a quick one, I downloaded the RAVE manual from Land Rover resource for the Disco 2 but there doesnt seem to be much info on the TD5, it seems to be mainly focused on the V8. Anyone know where I can find more info on the TD5?
cheers
Just a quick one, I downloaded the RAVE manual from Land Rover resource for the Disco 2 but there doesnt seem to be much info on the TD5, it seems to be mainly focused on the V8. Anyone know where I can find more info on the TD5?
cheers
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
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