Finally I got most of the parts off which need to be replaced or I think it makes sense to be replaced. Now I can start re-assembly, but first I need to order all the parts (mostly O-rings, gaskets and seals, but also water pump, oil pump and timing gears). I got the Flowkooler water pump already. I can reuse the timing cover by putting in new oil pump gears. On the other hand I can buy a new front cover. So my question, what is the point of spending more money on a new front cover instead of just oil pump gears?

 

If the cover is worn/scored, that would be one reason to replace. Steel gears will wear the aluminum cover over time so mileage would be the obvious factor.

 

Thanks, I always wondered if they wear. So which front cover do I buy? Is OEM good, or better go with a LR genuine one?

 

Fuel injector cleaning and testing: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...esting-117252/

 

Installed my aftermarket sensors on the lightly rebuilt P38 engine which will go into the D2.

Oil pressure and temperature sensors: In order to make space for the oil pressure sensor, I moved the factory oil pressure switch to the upper port (it's exactly the same port and both are connected, you can stick a rope through it). The pressure sensor is longer and would not fit into the upper port under the alternator bracket. This makes it very easy to add an oil pressure sensor behind the filter(requires an M12x1.5 to 1/8" NPT adapter). The oil temperature sensor is plugged into the unused oil cooler port (requires an M20x1.5 to 1/8" NPT adapter).



Coolant temperature sensor: Since I deleted the throttle body heater, I could use its coolant output port for the sensor. I cut an M12x1.5 thread into the hole and screwed a sensor body into it. I got a generic temp sender from ebay where I drilled out the internals. For sensing I will be using a digital sensor which offers much better accuracy (still needs to be epoxied in, I just stuck in the sensor with wires for demonstration purposes here).



View from inside: Left new factory temp sensor, right the aftermarket sensor.

 

When I put a P38 engine into my D2 I kept the oil cooler. It would be nice to have an oil pressure gauge.

I could never get a straight answer on the different front covers and the oil flow. I kept the oil cooler due to being scared of starving the engine of oil by not using it.

 

I added an oil cooler a few years ago. I am using a sandwich adapter with thermostat, that's why I don't use the oil cooler ports.

 

So it turned out all well. The 4.6 from a 2000 P38 is in for a while and it made 1,600 miles already. I run Extinct's coil relocation kit and did the inline thermostat mod (but not with Extinct's kit). I am too lazy to make a write up for all of this. A picture is worth more than thousand words, here are some:


Now it's very easy to change the wires and coils.


The P38 engine I bought came with all mounted parts including a Bosch 150A alternator. No question, this thing was not wasted, but replaced the weaker stock alternator.



For the inline thermostat I used the JEGS housing. It fits standard thermostats. It has 1.5" ports only, but that's no problem.



To make it connect to the block output hose and the radiator hose I needed two 90 degree elbows. The elbows are cut from a single Gates 20626 hose. Barb 1.5"-to-1.25" couplers allow an easy connection to the stock hoses.


Inline modification top view. It needed some trimming of the radiator shroud.


There is enough space between the belt and the thicker 1.5" hose.





The lower hose is made out of a Gates 22073 hose and a 34mm sensor adapter.



The Gates 22073 hose is reduced in length and cut into two pieces. The adapter connects the two hose pieces and allows to rotate one piece against the other to make it fit perfectly.

 

Looking good!