I've seen this issue pop up before and the answers and solutions seem to get just as muddy as the actual issue.

Here's the problem.


2004 Disco 2 74,000 mi. was running perfectly on Friday, got in vehicle today turned the key and hazards began flashing, the doors "super locked", a few clicks came from under the dash (sounded like interlock devices or solenoids) and the vehicle would not start. Starter turned, but it sounded like it was out of fuel. Vehicle has 1/2 tank. All lights on dash on during starting attempts, most go out at normal start up interval. Battery, Oil, Service Engine Soon stayed on. M+S lights were NOT blinking or illuminated. After I reset the inertia switch the red LED was not flashing.


Immediately got out, popped the hood grabbed a multimeter and checked the battery 12.4v. The vehicle sits for extended periods of time while I travel so low voltage was my gut feeling. Inertia switch was tripped. Reset and ran an OBD Scan.Returned later to it with a freshly charged (but older) Optima Yellow Top that was reading 13.3 @ the terminals. Inserted 9v memory saver in cigarette lighter to save radio codes and swapped out battery. Same story.


Turn key, hazards immediately come on doors superlock and what sounds like 3 or 4 interlock devices "click" under dash. If the key is left in start position with flashers on I can hear a faint whir under the steering column that sounds like a PC fan spinning.


Went out purchased a brand new battery (12.8v put on charger to peak to 13.2), installed, same story. Inertia switch hasn't popped since the original time I tried to start it. I double check after each battery install/reset.


OBD scans shows no active CEL or active codes but 2 "Pending" codes consisting of P0560: Low Voltage and a P1536. Erased "Pending" Codes. Tried the lock/unlock 3x approach after battery install before trying to start. Nothing.


Once I take the negative cable off to turn off the hazards and reattach it, the alarm arms/ disarms without incident with fob. Get in, turn the key and I get the same cycle of events. It really feels like the alarm system is just pissed 1st from a low voltage battery fault, now from a series of remote button mashes and battery resets which has likely locked me out of simply solving this.


I'm chasing my own tail here folks. I beg of you Land Rover Masters, save me! You are my only hope!!


Thanks in advance!!

 

The whir of the fan is related to the AC thermostat system, the small fan moves air across some sensors, to keep you and others in the cabin in perfect comfort. Not related to your issue.

Once vehicle power went low while truck was locked... and then you boosted power back up, if hood was open the alarm memory would have told it to wake up, the royal fortress is under attack, do something quick!

Try lock and unlock 5 times in a row with the fob.

The P0560 code is logged when battery goes below 2.55 volts, which is about as dead as they get. Does not turn on the check engine light. Now you have good volts at battery terminals, I would check fuses and fuse links (bolt in fuses), and follow that negative terminal wire from battery to where it bonds to chassis, making sure all of that is clean and tight.

 

Thanks for the concise and speedy reply. @savannah buzz

The vehicle is currently locked and armed. Should I Implement the 5x process from this state or should I remove the negative cable, depress the hood switch and attempt it then? Is there any light/flash interval to watch for to confirm the correct procedure has been implemented ? Sit in vehicle or execute from outside?


I think this is where I'm running into problems. Knowing the exact process and timing step s to perform to get the vehicle to release the grasp of its immobilizer system.

 

read thru https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...d-works-45005/

Sometimes battery is so low that owners can't unlock truck. They crawl under truck and attach battery jumper cables to the frame and the big positive wire on the starter, which runs back to the battery. Then they use another vehicle to power up the Rover (hood still closed), and get system to work.

I think the "magic" of doing the code multiple times prompts the ECU to exchange data with the BCU (body contol unit). This can be done with a working fob or the EKA with the door key.

It has always been my belief that Rover went over budget on the security system, to protect something that is usually insured; while skimping on the instruments (no oil gauge, barely functional heat gauge) that protect the most expensive part of the truck (engine). I believe that a shop level computer can actually turn off the immobilzation feature.

 

Thanks again @Savannah Buzz! This is what I was looking for. The 3x-5x lock/unlock with fob wasn't working. I knew there had to be more specifics and I might be missing some steps. I'll give this a shot and see if I can unlock "The Fortress of SilverTank"!!

 

Not working. Not getting any "confirmation tones" to start the EKA input process. 5x lock/unlock with fob yeilds nothing.

Both post seems to be regarding a 99 & 01. There is even conflicting information in the thread attached. One post say hold in "lock" for 5 seconds, as you pointed out RAVE says hold "unlock for 5 seconds. I've tried both.

Vehicle is 2004 D2. I know there were a bunch of changes made during the 2003/2004 years. Could the process or EKA code have changed but not on the 04? Is anyone aware of another default EKA code besides 1515 (which seems to work on 99-02)?


*A new battery has been fitted, so the low voltage issue no longer on the table. Inertia has been reset.