see http://www.landroverresource.com/doc...g_V8_Liner.pdf

Good photos of what is involved for those considering this practice.

 

That is one great link, thanks for sharing it.

 

turbodave on this forum put that pdf together.

 

awesome info!

 

incredible effort.
This should be made into a sticky.
Thank you so much!
Very detailed and exact.
You can tell the person who wrote it must be a machinist or a prototype type of person.

 

+1 Sticky.Very informative.

 

A waste of time and effort when a properly seated liner and correctly fitted head gasket that traps the liner will solve the issues. You have to take the head off at that point anyways. Otherwise a great effort with poor engineering skills. Good luck....

MAK

 

How much did it cost for your top hats? Done in a shop, or in the home garage? We can't all have a basement like Tony Stark. It's just another approach to a problem. Might not be the the approach everyone would take. Me, if faced with this, would probably junk truck and buy another one for $1500 to play with.

 

I paid 800.00 dollars for the truck with a blown Head gasket. Top hats are 680.00 from LA sleeve. Machine work was done by myself. Gaskets and other parts were roughly 300.00. Custom rocker arms were 365.00. Machine work by me. I like bores with minimal to no taper if I am investing my time and money.

After having done the work and analyzing the problem I would have chosen the Cometic gaskets after the seating of the liners to the register and decking the block if taper is not excessive. I don't know how many times people put the block back together without looking for the root cause. This would only be done with a good tested block. I have measured the fire ring diameter and know for fact that it is outside the liner O.D.. Not good and the liner is free to move in a overheat situation, or poor interference fit of the liner itself.

So, for 200.00 on a set of properly made gaskets, and some basic machine work, someone could have peace of mind in the longevity from a rebuild. Much cheaper and substantially easier to achieve better results in the long run. I'd do this in a heartbeat if I were to ever buy another Land Rover. I cannot see another in my future.

I do this stuff for ****s and giggles, not because I have to. Your money and choice, but as stated, you still have to pull the heads. If you have to pin the sleeve because of a tick, You will be better served by seating the liners (all 8) and decking. At that point and without further grief, buy the properly made head gasket, because you have to buy them no matter what.

I cannot make this any clearer to all people. The OEM gasket is junk unless top hatted liners are installed. Otherwise call Cometic and/or have a custom made gasket fitted to your block to trap the liner. What a joke to have to replace head gaskets as preventive maintenance on a automobile while still running.

I'll leave it at that. Have fun and good luck.

MAK

 

Interesting take on this. Based on the images I've seen of later Rover blocks, the bottom of sleeves in some cases seem to be pretty far from the machined register at the base of the bore. Can the existing sleeves be pressed in all the way and the block decked to make it flush or are you saying that the sleeves should be replaced with new ones that are properly installed, then the block should be decked? I would be surprised if the existing sleeves can be moved in the block as they are installed cold in a warm block to allow them to be pressed in. I don't know if I would bother replacing liners with anything other than top-hats. If you install top-hats, then the register doesn't play a role in capturing the liner. The sleeve pinning works on running engines that are annoying to listen to. The process can be done with the engine in the vehicle without pulling the heads. I believe I've seen several posts where this has been done and it has worked out well.