Please help - just got codes P0301 P0201
#1
Please help - just got codes P0301 P0201
I'm a new to this forum - have a 2000 Disco II w/105,000 miles - was running fine but then started running rough for a minutes at startup and SES came on - blinking at first, then to solid and car then runs fine again - Went to local shop and was told the codes are P0301 and P0201 - mechanic said the cylinder #1 fuel injector has an open circuit and is probably shot - and it would probably cost me > $1000 to fix - and that if i have 1 bad injector, then I probably will have more soon - so he advised me to get rid of the car - I took it to another shop and he told me that it is highly unusual for one to fail, but that he could fix it for $900 and that I should either get it fixed or don’t drive the car because it will cause more damage and he doesn’t think this means they will all start to fail soon – so, I am wondering if anyone has any advice for me?- Is it worth the $900? - should I go ahead and replace all the injectors?- is this something I could do myself perhaps? - or is this the beginning of the end? (which is what my wife is telling me) and should I think about a new vehicle? - thanks
#2
301 misfire cylinder 1 is certainly caused by 201, which is injector 1 open circuit. Injector 1 get solid 12 volts from fuse block, along with all the other injectors, on a brown/orange wire. A yellow/blue wire leads off to the the engine computer, which switchs that spot to ground to open the injector. This is precisely timed to admit just the needed quantity of fuel. Check connector in this picture.
Use an ohm meter and read injector pins with connector disconnected, a good one will read from 13.8 to 15.2 ohms.
May just be loose connector.
You can DIY replace injector. Reman they are $35 - $65. Download full shop manual below, called the RAVE.
This is not the end. You may want to invest in your own scanner code reader, usually less tha $100. Auto parts stores will also read codes for free usually. Riun some BG 44 or similar solvent (SeaFoam, etc.) in a tank of premium gas. You do need to use premium.
Use an ohm meter and read injector pins with connector disconnected, a good one will read from 13.8 to 15.2 ohms.
May just be loose connector.
You can DIY replace injector. Reman they are $35 - $65. Download full shop manual below, called the RAVE.
This is not the end. You may want to invest in your own scanner code reader, usually less tha $100. Auto parts stores will also read codes for free usually. Riun some BG 44 or similar solvent (SeaFoam, etc.) in a tank of premium gas. You do need to use premium.
#3
#4
No it is not a given that once one goes they all go. If not ready for DIY perhaps select another mechanic and take our info with you. You should avoid driving the car. Pretty basic, a couple of clips release the injecto which has some o-rings. Will have to lossen a bolt for fuel rail to move.
#5
Thanks again Savannah - i will probably try to get a mechanic to do it - both of the mechanics I went to told me that it takes a long time to get to the injectors because you have to remove something complicated (I think they said the intake manifold) and that the job would probably take about 4 hours - It sounds to me like you've done this before - Does that sound right? - or how long do you think it should take? - you make it sound like its not that big of a deal - so, thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it...
#6
Four hours seem reasonable. A new injector is pricey, and they are available remanufactured. Saw new aftermarket at Autohausaz.com for like $195. Attached is page that shows the intake ( #1 ) that must come off with two bolts, but more connects to it, and some gaskets.
While they have their hand on your wallet, see if you can get them, as part of testing the injector, to test the fuel pressure at the schrader test valve on the fuel rail. This is very hard to get to unless the top manifold is off. Good fuel pressure means good fuel pump.
While they have their hand on your wallet, see if you can get them, as part of testing the injector, to test the fuel pressure at the schrader test valve on the fuel rail. This is very hard to get to unless the top manifold is off. Good fuel pressure means good fuel pump.
#7
I agree, the fact that one injector has failed doesn't mean the rest are shot. Especially on D2's, they are a far better injector then the D1's were.
As for the time required, with a friend helping me, I can pull the intake manifold, pull the injector and have it back together in an hour. If you have a friend that is slightly mechanical, and read the Rave CD, for directions, you could do it in 2 hours instead of paying $500 plus in labor.
As for the time required, with a friend helping me, I can pull the intake manifold, pull the injector and have it back together in an hour. If you have a friend that is slightly mechanical, and read the Rave CD, for directions, you could do it in 2 hours instead of paying $500 plus in labor.
#8
Thanks Mike - really appreciate your advice - I'm going to read the Rave and may try to give it a shot, but now I am going to either fix or replace the injector because other than this one issue it runs fine - the strange thing is that I was just saying to someone how well it's running when this comes up the very next day!! - so I'll fix this, drop in a can of Seafoam and keep my fingers crossed!!
Thanks again guys...
Thanks again guys...
#9
Before you go to all that work would be a darn good idea to remove connector from that injector, and check with an ohm meter. if you get a reading in the right area (13.8 - 15.2 ohms) then the problem is electrical (connector, wire, etc.). That should take all of five minutes. The scanner code says it is open, but the ECM has no idea if that is in the wiring, the connector, or the real device.
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rishmoca
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01-10-2008 12:05 PM