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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 09:17 PM
  #21  
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Two primary goals, first, don't remove too much material that you breach a water jacket; two, you are seeking a smooth progressive transition from valve bowl to gasket matched port exit. Eliminate any bottleneck in transition and avoid removing too much in transition. Besides increasing the volume of the port flow, you are also seeking to maintain consistent velocity. Remove too much and the gasket is restricting flow. Remove too little and there is a bottleneck near the valve.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2018 | 09:35 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by PalmettoDisco
Two primary goals, first, don't remove too much material that you breach a water jacket; two, you are seeking a smooth progressive transition from valve bowl to gasket matched port exit. Eliminate any bottleneck in transition and avoid removing too much in transition. Besides increasing the volume of the port flow, you are also seeking to maintain consistent velocity. Remove too much and the gasket is restricting flow. Remove too little and there is a bottleneck near the valve.
As I mentioned, when I have a workshop to do this in I may find some used heads and give it a shot.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:25 PM
  #23  
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I’ve watched some tutorials on how to port and polish, and in particular Eastwood has one. I am going to get a dremel to notch my thread chasers, and am really starting to consider port matching the intake and exhaust ports.

I am thinking to go into it as more of a polish and see how it goes with 80 grit. Stay away from carbide bits or the more invasive tools.

just using the sandpaper, and not bothering the valves, what is my risk of catastrophic error?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:38 PM
  #24  
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Catasrophic? Negligible, especially staying away from the carbides. The only thing that would truly destroy the head would be hitting a water jacket, and honestly even that can be fixed if you've got a friend that can TIG weld. Just a pain in the rear.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:42 PM
  #25  
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Yeah if you’re just matching the gaskets, you should be fine. It’s when you start milling out the internal runners etc that you can muck stuff up.

i might do this as well
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:42 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
Catasrophic? Negligible, especially staying away from the carbides. The only thing that would truly destroy the head would be hitting a water jacket, and honestly even that can be fixed if you've got a friend that can TIG weld. Just a pain in the rear.
i think I will give it a shot. If it looks to daunting I can always change my mind.

do you use a marker or do you have the machinists coating?
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:43 PM
  #27  
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You can use whatever to mark the material
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 01:59 PM
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I use a sharpie, typically.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 02:58 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Alex_M
I use a sharpie, typically.
I may start with the intakes for practice. I am cleaning and painting parts, and I have time before the weather permits any painting.

Thanks for indulging my madness.
 

Last edited by CollieRover; Apr 7, 2018 at 03:25 PM.
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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 08:02 PM
  #30  
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prussian blue
paint it around the ports in the head, and set the lower intake in place, or vice versa
 
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