Also noticed for some time that when I hit the brakes that the truck kinda pulls to the right for a sec. Is this the abs not working properly or could it be the brake calipers not working properly?

 

You need to rent the 3 amigos code reader and find out for sure what the problem is.

ABS Amigo V1 USB - Discovery II - RENTAL - Rentals - Tools

 

Yeah, your riight, thanks for the link.

 

Sorry to wake an old thread but I have a similar problem.....

My code read "left rear sensor output too low" and I got all 3 abs lights plus the parking break and HDC....
I got a new Proline abs sensor from Rovers North and installed it.
Upon clearing the codes it drove great.... until I turned a corner.\
Under power and turning the abs light comes on and the traction control goes bananas until i release the accelerator.
As a precaution I changed out the hub to an extra "good" hub and I have the same issue.
Are the abs sensor failure rates high on new parts or is it just because I cheaped out?

Any input would be appreciated - Paul.

 

Ok, so I'm about to attempt this job myself. Just to be sure, I wanted to review what I need to do - please correct me if I'm wrong:

1. pull off wheel and rotor to get access to ABS sensor
2. unplug yellow plug from SLABS unit behind glove box & cut old sensor wires
3. pull old sensor & wire all the way out from wheel
4. secure new sensor (with lube) and run wire all way back up through wheel well, and back to SLABS unit.
5. splice new ABS wire close to SLABS unit to yellow plug and plug back in (according to Atlantic British Youtube video)
6. Reset code
7. Be really nervous for a week while hoping the 3-Amigos don't return

Sound right?

 

I've never done this repair on Disco, but have on my p38 Range Rover. Your plan sounds pretty straight forward, the only question I have is: Do you HAVE to disturb the caliper and rotor to do this repair? I didn't have to when I replaced the p38's front ABS sensors. I only had to remove the wheels and I had more than enough working room once I turned the steering wheel all the way in the right direction. Guess I'll find out soon enough because my Disco is complaining about it's driver side front ABS sensor output right now, unless someone else knows the answer to this. I don't figure the two trucks are much different seeing as they are brothers from the same era in engineering.

One thing I do remember from replacing the ABS sensors on my p38 is after I replaced them I cranked the truck to see if my warning lights had went off, and they HAD NOT! Whilst I cursed Land Rover, threw tools and swore to quit fooling with these trucks I decided to put the wheels back on and drive it down the road before I returned the cheap aftermarket sensors I had gambled on. I was emensly happy when I got up to about 40 MPH and all the lights cleared off the dash and never returned.

 

Thanks, kfx for getting back to me. I was able to get the job done, and on the DISCO, it does in fact require that the caliper & rotor be removed -- BUT NOT THE HUB NUT! I was able to feed the new sensor in backwards and pull the rubber grommets through the hole in the hub (not enough room for the sensor head to go through). Then I had to wire it all the way back to the engine compartment, through the firewall, and to the SLABS unit.

Conveniently, there is an opening with a blank rubber plug in the wall between the engine and the glove box. I drilled a hole in the plug and ran the wire right through it so that it wouldn't let moisture in. I then had to splice the wire in to replace the old sensor (the yellow plug in the SLABS). This was tricky as I had to identify which was the correct set of wires. There are four sets - 1 leading to each hub. (The video by Atlantic British said the front ones were brown and rear were green. This was backwards for my truck).

After I spliced the new sensor wires in with the correct old ones going int the plug, I had to get the codes cleared - requires special equipment that the Euro shops have. This is when it got scary. At first, the lights went off, then came back on. then over the next couple days went off again, then came back on (a highly emotional experience for me as you can imagine ). Finally, they stayed off!!!!! for now... it's been about two weeks. But I think it worked. We'll see!

 

[QUOTE=caymandrew;399580]The only thing that fixed it was to add gear luge to the end of it before putting it back in. You'll see in this picture the teeth the sensor reads inside the hub. There seems to be a 1/4" space in between the end of the sensor and the teeth. For some odd reason the sensor was not getting a good reading without the space filled with lube. You'll notice it cake on the end when you remove as well. I've not read of anyone else having that issue but thought I'd pass it along.

What gear lube did you use? just the gear oil you would put in the diff?

 

It looks to me like grease. Definitely not the gear oil from the diff. I actually think one of the problems that kills these hubs and sensors is the gear oil leaking thru the bearing seals into the hub.

For the record, I tried the lube trick on mine and it didn't help. I think the key diagnosis is you clear the codes, start the truck, and the 3 amigos don't come on unless the truck is moving. If they come on with the truck still, you have a bad sensor.

Also, I disagree with caymenandrew about the hub - I didn't think it was that bad at all. The hub nut comes off easily with a 1/2" impact gun, and goes back on easily with a long cheater pipe. For me the hardest part was finding the right loctite. I bought Chinese hubs off ebay for cheap and with maybe five thousand miles on them I've had no issues so far.

 

Yeah, that's what I thought, but everyone kept saying "Gear Lube" but it really looks like grease. Every time I try and drive my Traction Control kicks in. No idea if it's a bad reading. So I have my ABS Sensors disconnected right now. Maybe I need to get an ABS reader and reset everything and see if it works. The we're working fine before I removed my Half Shaft to put ball joints in