potential 02 disco 2 overheats
Either owner knows what's wrong with truck, then te is playing games,,
And if he really doesn't, then it tells me he was never able to take care of it properly,
So, could have been neglecting lots of issues,
If something wrong with engine, & you can do work yourself, you might be ok,
But if you have to take to mechanic, might cost you more than truck is worth,
And if he really doesn't, then it tells me he was never able to take care of it properly,
So, could have been neglecting lots of issues,
If something wrong with engine, & you can do work yourself, you might be ok,
But if you have to take to mechanic, might cost you more than truck is worth,
he said when he saw it getting warm via the guage he pulled over... everytime. the faster you drive it the quicker it heats up if that helps.
body is straight. no rust. interior is dirty but good shape. the front 2 windows dont roll down and o2code and a abs tc code. new tires.
also near the res cap there is one line entering from the radiator and a second line just hanging there open coming from the top of the res. is that a vent? where does that line go?
-barry
Last edited by barryt; Aug 12, 2015 at 03:02 PM.
he said when he saw it getting warm via the guage he pulled over... everytime. the faster you drive it the quicker it heats up if that helps.
body is straight. no rust. interior is dirty but good shape. the front 2 windows dont roll down and o2code and a abs tc code. new tires.
also near the res cap there is one line entering from the radiator and a second line just hanging there open coming from the top of the res. is that a vent? where does that line go?
-barry
body is straight. no rust. interior is dirty but good shape. the front 2 windows dont roll down and o2code and a abs tc code. new tires.
also near the res cap there is one line entering from the radiator and a second line just hanging there open coming from the top of the res. is that a vent? where does that line go?
-barry
I have a recent thread on temps rising as I drove faster and my problem was was restrictive cowl around the radiator. I had an electric fan so that's not the issue on this rover, I assume. What is seller has is either a bad thermostat, a gunked up radiator, air in the coolant, and or a cracked head or block, and or a blown head gasket. Everything except a cracked block or head can be fixed without great expense in your driveway.
Unfortunately since you don't have the truck, it would be hard to figure out what the problem is.
Parts are:
200 to replace head gaskets and head bolts
Maybe 1000 to replace block or 400 to replace a cracked head
160 for a new radiator
80 for a new thermostat
17 bucks for antifreeze to get rid of air pockets
Of course those are parts only and assume you do the work yourself. Not knowing which problem is a big risk. I bought a parts rover recently but I knew what the problem was and how to fix it. Labor to fix some of those things (block, heads, head gasket) would leave you thinking that the 500 purchase price was HIGH.
Still, I'd probably buy it myself because you can ebay at least a thousand in parts off off it if the worst happens. I'd have to drive it and see the temperature remain constant with the heater on high, not losing coolant. That would still be be risk. For a daily driver with no other car to rely on? I'd run away from it. It really sound like a good parts car that MIGHT turn into something better. Might.
You really do not get an indication that a rover is running hot from dash until it is basically too late.
Last edited by Charlie_V; Aug 12, 2015 at 03:32 PM.
I didn't catch that. So maybe it didn't go past the point of damage. That raises it two points on my unknown scale.
I guess. I think the cluster gauge (if that is what he meant) is just there to inform you that you are now screwed.
I guess. I think the cluster gauge (if that is what he meant) is just there to inform you that you are now screwed.
I just went back and re-read the first post. If you're really concerned (which it sounds like you are) then perform a block check which should tell you whether or not the head gasket is bad. If it is bad, and you factor in doing the work yourself, then maybe $500 is a good price, but no more. If it checks good, then you'll hear the owner say how it's worth more, so you are taking a chance from a price standpoint but at least there is some comfort level there. Heck, it may even be a stuck thermostat. If block checks okay then I'd start out at $500 and go up to $1000 max. You never know, he may just want to get rid of it.


