I read somewhere that there was an in line fuse. 50amp I believe, I cant find it, but if I do I'll post the location. Apparently the guy replaced it with a 60, the windows and seats worked for a few months and it blew again. I dont need my seats t worl for more than a few minutes, and if I had the tools, id just manually move the passenger seat back. Its right up against the dash.

 

Just as a thing, we all know that's real dangerous, right?

Fuses shouldn't blow. If they do, it's because there is an electrical problem. Upping the fuse rating doesn't fix the problem, it only increases the chance of a car fire.

Look at the thread of the guy who's glove box set on fire. Lucky he didn't lose his car. We don't know he hadn't been 'upping' the rating of fuses somewhere else, when the problem was under his glove box.

Just saying, in case of any doubt.

Edit. @sarahcake. I know you say you only need them to work for a minute. Then you would take the fuse out maybe. Other people might come along and see that as a solution.

 

Nooooooope, I certainly don't suggest that as a solution. It's as appropriate as a spare tire. It'll do just fine until you can get yourself out of a sticky situation (windows down in the rain, or moving the seat back and immediately pulling the fuse again) if you have to bump up the fuse, go with a small amount (5amp) if the fuse blows again, then you've got yourself an obvious short. My issue is my fuses are all good, and I can't for the life of me get that GD seat back.

 

Have you tried applying 12v direct to the motor?

 

Not yet. Ill get a few tools to test everything today

 

Try what capped up suggests, you may be able to move the seat into a useable position at least.

Problem being is these trucks are between 11 and 20 years old now and the plastic wiring insulator is getting old and brittle and shorting against other wires or frames.

 

So, if I'm going to try to drive power directly to the motor, couldn't I also drive power directly to the switches? What would be the positive and negative wires? I see a red, a white, and a black one.

 

Short to ground(chaffed line touching metal that it shouldn't ) before the load (seat motor) will always blow the fuse. Use the wiring diagrams and find the main power line between the fuse and the motors. Some disassembly will be required..

 

I can't speak for sarahcake, but I don't even know where the blown fuse is...

 

Alright! I took a late lunch and got a sweet power probe. I tested my windows and found out that they work! Also I got my passenger side seat to move back as well. Im fairly confident its the BCU, but in the meantime, I'll just start tracing wires. So the motors aren't burnt-out, but i still haven't figured out the real issue.