The shifter should be arriving Thursday, but will still be two or three weeks until I can get a chance to do the install. In the mean time I have read three tutorials, mainly for the console removal, that cover the DI linkage. The only one that cover's the '04 linkage is Urban Panzer's. I have some questions about steps 21 and 22. If the wire is NOT cut, engaging the CDL before starting will disable TC and ABS, correct? What info is transmitted along the blue wire? I'm sure there will be more questions along the way, I just want to keep the install as trouble free as possible.

Thanks

 

Hi,

If the wire is NOT cut, then if you start the car with the CDL engaged it will DISABLE the ABS,TC,HDC. Its not to much of a problem really, however if your off-roading and you stall the engine for example, you will then turn the key to restart and most likely you will already have the CDL engaged so it will disable ABS,TC,HDC....

To save the hassle of making sure the diff-lock is out before you start, simply cut the wire, that way the SLABS ECU recieves no signal and won't disable the ABS, TC,HDC "if" the car is started with the CDL engaged. This is how it works from the factory for the facelift Disco 2's fitted with a CDL as the SLABS ECU was re-programmed to ignore the CDL position.

Hope this clears it up for you, any questions, then fire away, i will help if i can.

 

Gotcha, thanks Urban Panzer. Do you have a pic of the cut wire by chance, and how long would you say it took to do the install? Your site is very helpful, what other mods do you have planned before the Sahara trip? Snorkel maybe?

 

Hi, I dont currently have a piccy of the wire, but as you've askedI will take one and post it here in this topic and add it to my website install write up , I never did one at the time as it was dark by that pointand I just wanted to get it up and running at the time.

To do the install, I would say allow yourself 3-4 hours, as you have my install to follow or look at before hand it will help as you know where to start attacking it all.

Its important to have some 4.6mm Pop rivets to refit the transfer cover plate back again, theres 13 in total, but allow yourself a few spares. The rivets need to be about 10mm long.

As far as other mods, yes theres more on the way, Snorkel, yes definatley as the dust in the desert plays havok with the factory intake, and the "original" snorkel use was for "cleaner" air, the wading is just a bonus feature, I just cannot decide which one to get......, there is also awinch in the box in the garage and this will be fitted soon, also anEngel fridge when i can bring myself to part with the money.[:@]

I will document all I do as I have already, so "hopefully" it will help others in what they decide to do. initially the website was just for storing photos ect, but its sort of expanded as i like playing with webpages, if it helps just 1 person do something i've done, then its even more worth while.

 

If you are going to do alot of wheeling, do not cut the wire. The ability to shut off the ABS and ETC is huge when in very awkward spots on a trail.
If you have ever had to back down a off camber, steep muddy or snow covered trail you will know why you want the ABS off, and that is just one reason.

 

Hi,

Sorry Mike butI cannot undertsandthe logic there, because if you shut them of, you loose the HDC to, and coming down a steep muddy slope etc is exactly when you use / need it, theres no option to "shut them off" its purely how the D2 without factory CDL is wired up from new ref starting with CDL engaged

 

You have to experience it once to understand the logic around it.
As much as I really like HDC, when going off camber and your ABS wants to slide you off the side of the hill, instead of allowing you to stay centered on the trail, controling your direction.
On a lessor level, there is nothing like coming off an all day, rough trail with your brakes smoking because of the ETC and ABS constantly running while you are truning, going thru the rocks and climbing. All you are doing is letting the ABS over work your brakes in areas where it is not needed.

 

Hi,

I can see where your coming from "ish", but if you do go ahead and fit a CDL, your ABS , TC will most likely be working a lot less during an offroad session anyway......... well, compared to my friends truck during our day out, his was on LOTS more than mine as he had no CDL to engage.

 

Well I'm more comfortable leaving the wire as is for now. I was actually going to ask you about the pop rivets in my last post. So it looks like rivets should be 3/16" x 3/8" (4.6mm x 10mm). About steps 14 and 15, when cutting the bigger hole in the mounting plate, does it only need to get wider for the left-right throw of the shifter? Or should I just match it to the opening of the gasket on the base of the lever? Thanks for the advise guys.

 

Hi, The hole needs to get bigger forward and aft to accomodate the "square" section at the base of the NewDiff lever. This is for when you go from "high" to Low" etc. The original hole is round an offset to the left.

It does also need to get bigger left to right to, but this is not so much for the "movement" as the lever pivots inside the square section, its purely so you can actually get the lever through the hole to enable you to bolt the new lever back to the cover plate.

Its not hard to cut it, its only thin sheet material, I just drilled for holes in the corners and then joined them up, filed it smooth on the edges and thats aboutit.It sounds more difficult than it is, but as soon as you have it in your hands, you will see exactly what needs to be removed

HereI have drawn a "rough" diagram of the section of the cover plate showing what i mean. This should help a bit more



That size pop rivet will be perfect for the job , as far as "cutting" the wire, well thats up to you, I just made it like the "factory" install, and as I stated in my write up, I actually fiited "bullet" connectors to the 2 wires at the SLABS ECU, so if needed it can be simply reconnected at any time.