Awesome Urban Panzer, thanks for that illustration on cutting the hole! That makes sense to me. I'm sure when I get the shifter everything will really come together and the pieces will start to fall together. I keep going over your instructions so when I need to explain them to my friend during the job, I'm confident knowing what has to be done. When it's time for the install I'll be sure to take many pics too. What was the hardest part for you? To me it seems like the center console removal is trickiest because of the various clips that shouldn't get broken (at least not too many).

 

Hi,

There is not really anything hard to be honest, if you can use a few tools then you will have no probs. As far as the trim goes, just take your time and it will all come apart no problem, just a small note, when you reomve the centre console rearwards and upwards, DONT forget the cigarrette lighter plugs, and as you move the console between the front seats, be carfeul if you have leather as its a tight fit. It will come but be careful....

there is2 options to over come this, 1 remove the arm rests on the front seats which is a simple as pop of the cap, lift to 45 degrees and remove 1 8mm bolt. The other option is recline the front seats down that will give plenty of room, but do this before you remove all the elecy plugs if you have electric seats.

Apart from that, its all as shown on my webpage, Im pretty sure I covered most if not all of it, but doing the install and remembering to stop and take a piccy at each stage, you just forget sometimes....like i did after cutting the hole!! [:@]

It might be worth while for you to get a NEW difflock switch as if the old one has never been used it might be a bit temprimental, if work at all,mine was hit and missbutI re-fitted it all back together and fitted a new switch at a later date. The manual tells you to remove all sorts to get at it, but I simply crawled underneath to fit mine...

Fitting a new switch from the topis far easier.....so worth considereing....

 

Grrr... The package arrived today but it's the shifter from a D1. I'm now waiting to hear back from CarCannibal to see if they actually have the 2004 shifter I originally requested.

 

Ok, back on track again with the CDL install. I wound up getting the shifter from RoverLand Parts. It's taken many months to track this shifter down but I'm glad to finally have it. This one came with both the high/low and diff lock cables attached. The longer, high/low cable also has a small wire which connects from the inside body of the shifter to a connector half way down the cable. I don't see that small wire on my current linkage. Is this just an '04 specific piece I don't need and should just use the high/low cable I currently have? It looks like it will be at least a month now before I'll have the time to get this in but I'll keep updating this thread. Here are some pics of the kit I recieved.



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Hi that wire is for the solenoid interlock for NAS and JAP spec auto's. If you have a manual, you dont need it just tie it out the way

Is yours a manual ? .........If its an auto, then you will have a solenoid interlock on the top of the transfer case that will obviously bealready connected up, from "03" model year, the interlock solenoidwas moved up to the transfer lever to where the one is you have now as its an "04" part.

So if you have an auto, you could just tie the wire out the way as if you had a manual, or even better remove the solenoid interlock from the lever assy and sell it on........ or keep it as a spare "if" its the same as the one fitted to the transfercase already, this I dont know about as we dont have them in Europe

EDIT:- Looking at the parts, they are very different, so I would probably remove the interlock from the lever and sell it on

For ease of install, just fit it with your HIGH / LOW cable as its already adjusted correctly if you want, but even fitting the new one is no probs and will only add 10 - 15 mins to the install

 

Hello, I do have an auto shifter. Since the solenoid interlock is connected to the transfer box where is the other end located? I will look into removing that part from the new lever and use the existing high/low cable and solenoid interlock wire.

 

Hi, what do you mean by the "other" end ? its fitted on the top of the case by the neutral switch and is electrically connected to the IDM (intelligent Driver Module)

Since you have an auto trans and the interlock is already installed / connected / working, then just remove it from your new transferlever.

 

Ah, I gotcha. I was looking at the RAVE cd after that post and I see how it all connects to the t-case now. Sorry for the confusion.

 

A few days ago the '04 CDL was installed without any issues. We followed Urban Panzer's write-up and it was spot on. The interlock solenoid is sealed with clear silicon and would have taken too long to dig out, so the tip was cut off with a die grinder. We got everything installed but the CDL light doesn't illuminate on the dash. It was late and everything appeared to work fine (mechanically speaking) so we closed everything up.

It wasn't until the next day I remembered something in the service records about the diff lock and went to look it up. Sure enough back in June 2003 the PO took the truck in because the CDL light was coming on for whatever reason. The dealer disconnected the switch on the t-case and taped it back. I wish I had remembered that during the install when it was easy to get to.

Anyways, I wanted to test the CDL so tonight I found an empty parking lot and drove in tight circles with the CDL locked and unlocked. You can surely feel the lurching with the CDL locked vs. unlocked.

The D1 "DIFF LOCK" shifter **** was delivered today and a D1 CDL placard should be here in a day or two.

 

Hey glad to hear it all went well (except dash light) . If you need a new Diff lock switch, they can be fitted from underneath no probs at all. Its obviously more of a pain to do than it would be from the top but it can be done.

Justa small note on this, the washer that is on the diff lock switch is a pre-determind thickness / shapeto make sure the diff lock switch sits at the correct depth into the transfer case, so itneeds to be re-used if you fit a new switch.

You will find youwill also be able tore-connect the taped wire to the original one from underneathto and see how it performs.