As for the hiss, try replacing those factory hose clamps with some band clamps. Those tend to leak when they get old.

As for the knock... that sound's bad. Definitely not a lifter, it's too deep a sound for a lifter. Here's a video for reference of mine before I replaced my lifters. I don't think it's a rod knock, but it could be. I don't know exactly what a rod knock sounds like on these engines, only on others. Whatever it is, it's real bad.


Water in the oil and a knock... sleeve maybe? I'm not sure myself, but if someone would be so kind as to confirm or deny whether or not a slipped sleeve can allow coolant into the oil?

 

i would worry to much about the water in the oil at this point, it could just be from 2-years of condensation.
Pressure test to cooling system to locate any leaks and then run it.
The noise your hearing dont even worry about that now, it could tic like that for another 50k miles.
it sounds as if the tic is still there when you rev it, which would leave me to believe it is not a liner.
at X rpm the liner should stop making noise, as the piston speed will increase enough keeping the liner from hitting. jmho

 

My first thoughts as well. Can you monitor the real temps? You need to get it up to running temperature/pressure and see what's happening. Obviously avoiding any temp too high.

What codes are stored? Which Come back when you clear them.

Congrats on reanimating it!

Squealing is most certainly belt, pulley bearing related. Also unimportant right now.

 

I got some codes with my battered old palm pilot. It used to be capable of RT data such as temp, but it wasn't cooperating. Connection was intermittent. I might be able to get it to work, though.

codes:
P000 (these first two codes might be BS, never heard of three digit number codes, my machine was having a hard time staying connected, but it did pull the same codes several times).
P044
P2174
P2520
P2620
P1469
P3365

That's quite a collection. When I started up the SES light blinked a bit and it almost stalled, but then steadied out after a few seconds. It wasn't making the knocking sound.

The other day when I drove it, it started to overheat, so I shut it off. It cooled down quickly and I drove the rest of the way home. Then when I was running it in the garage to take the idling video the temp started going up towards the red again, so I had to shut it off again. So more accurate temperature reading would be helpful, but I know for sure that it appears to be overheating if left to its own devices (moving or stopped).

Thanks for giving me some perspective and some things to look at.

 

Take this with a grain of salt.

Stop running the motor. You're going to ruin the block if you haven't already. Start pulling it apart and see what has failed. Charging the battery and changing the oil isn't going to help you. It needs head gaskets. Start there (for financial mindset). Tear it down then, pressure test the block. If the block passes pressure test - put it back together with new hoses, clamps, gaskets, radiator and water pump. I highly suggest using ARP studs in place of TTY bolts.

This is a very resourceful forum. Plenty of head gasket, motor refresh threads to help guide you along the way. Search and ask. You will find what you need.

Or yank it out and "drop in" the LS.

 

I agree that further running it very much right now probably isn't a good idea.

Changing the oil was necessary so I knew what I was dealing with (found brown goo, that is good information) and it certainly needed the battery up to the task (had to buy a new one) so I could find out what else is / is not working. Remember I'm buying it after it sat for a year and a half after the PO abandoned it. I have no idea what works and what doesn't because I never got to drive the car before it died. I saved it from getting it transmission harvested, which pretty much would have made it a parts car (or a LS swap candidate).

Where would you guys suggest I get head studs/bolts and gaskets (if I go that route)? Any suggestions on which writeup to refer to (or the RAVE)? The sticky only references the rover V8 website (which is a great resource).

Also, where should I start for pressure testing the system? Does anyone have a recommendation on a good pressure tester kit?

 

before "i" ripped the top end off i would check a couple things, just because it runs hot does not mean it need head gaskets or a block.

How about you try some diagnostics like pressure test the coolant system, CO2 test the coolant, or do a compression test on the engine.

it would kind of sux if you pulled motor apart for a stuck t-stat

 

If you have had coolant in the oil since the initial "condensation" run, you either have a cracked block, bad head gaskets (common) or some crazy leak in the front cover.

I always get the Victor Reinz head gasket kit and head bolts on amazon... But I say "always" because I have done it a few times.

I've never pressure tested--I'm a throw parts at it kind of guy, which is bad--so someone else will have to chime in on that.

 

Oh and not all Reinz kits are equal. I have gotten cheaper ones that didn't have the complete set of gaskets. You want a kit with head gaskets, o rings, valve cover gaskets, upper and lower intake gaskets, and I can't remember what else. The head gasket job can be done in your driveway on a sunny day and you'll be a champ when it's done.

I have pressure tested the cylinders. Cheapo tester from Harbor Freight will tell you if there is a serious leak. Just thread in a spark plug hole.

 

What about coolant pressure test? Harbor freight a good place to start for that?

Does the thermostat need to be open to test the coolant pressure?