Hi,

when you bleed the brakes is it with your foot pedal, I prefer to use a vacuum pump, then it only myself needed, do 1 wheel check the level top as needed, but before I start I clamp the hose remove the bleed nipple and coat the nipple thread with a bit of grease to stop it allowing any air past when I open it to bleed the calliper, don’t forget to take off the clamp

Second option would be to pressurize the master cylinder, there cheap to buy and normally run of the spare wheel pressure

To start with I would clamp all the rubber hose on all 4 wheel, test to see that your brake pedal is solid it should be as the system is locked , next, get an assistant to push hard on the brake pedal, remove the hose clamp, on the closest break in the system to the master cylinder, next using a measuring jug , bleed the calliper, count the number of desperations it takes to bleed the brake , make a note of how much fluid you have divide by the number of strokes tell you how much brake fluid you get per push on the pedal, lock the brake apply the hose clamp, repeat on the other brakes, next closest, …..to farthest last, finally you should have the same amount of fluid per stroke from each calliper, if not check the lowest level calliper as it, if that fails to find the problem, the you may need to pressure gauges on all four wheels to see if there any imbalance of pressure delivered to the callipers

 

Great ideas everyone, THX!

THX for article.

I doubt very much that the shop bled the ABS system per rover specs after replacing the master cylinder. Also, possible hang-up in ABS block! Is that possible?? Will check these.

I like the idea of putting gauge on the lines(and volume check)!! Pads are even. Tires were balanced x2 and rotated x1, made no difference.

The brake lines are braided stainless, so clamping them is out. But, they are older and might invest in new set.

having the disco track straighter with hard pedal pressure seems to indicate low right front pressure.....just feels like an air bubble/restriction somewhere....

 

If you’ve already got SS lines I doubt that is the problem, I’ve only seen the OEM style collapse internally. When the MC is replaced you usually bench bleed it, install it, bleed the lines at the ABS pump, then power bleed the ABS pump, then bleed at the wheels.

 

I'm pretty sure the 'power bleed' of ABS unit did NOT occur........and likely the ABS lines not bled as well.

My extended lines were old style and showing some rust (yeah, guess not real stainless) so I ordered some new goodridge 4" extended lines. Will replace and bleed appropriately......

 

I have had experience of high pressure line collapsing internally, the fluid gets in between the outer and inner, sleeves and and just forces the inner line closed, if your going to invest in new Braided flex lines why not fit and old set standard lines first carry out all your checks to locate the problem, when it found and fixed replace with your new braided flex lines

 

There are two hoses coming out of the modulator - you might replace those as well if you're replacing the 4 corners.

 

thx. will check. I have nanocom and will use this for bleeding too.

 

Check health of parts 33, 29, 26 and rubber bushings in general at :

----> https://workshop-manuals.com/landrov...on_bar_shown)/

I do not believe it is the brakes. Something is deforming under the brutal forces of braking changing the geometry of the front end aiming left.

 

Had this EXACT problem. Was a bad soft brake line. the inside of the line swells as it absorbs water from old brake fluid causing the wheel with the swollen line to not stop, and car will veer to the other side, bc pressure is not getting thru to caliper. When you press harder on the pedal, the pressure forces fluid thru the line, applying the brakes on the offending wheel, straightening out your course. It may then, keep the caliper engaged bc pressure cannot equalize due to the blockage, causing further veering back and forth, but not in all cases.

Replace all brake hoses including the 2 short ones between the body and frame in DS wheel well, and flush old fluid. Not a bad time to replace calipers while you're at it. Especially if they're original.

 

Thx guys. I will check the two short hoses. all suspension bushings are brand new.