Just purchased a 2003 D2 about 30 minutes ago for the ripe price of $500. It has engine knocking. Luckily, it's only about 4 miles away from my house. So here's the dilemma:

Option 1: Driving it home. (What kind of damage can I do running the engine for about 10 minutes? I don't really know exactly whats wrong with the engine but I live in the mountains so I would likely have to get into those higher rpms to get home.)

Option 2: Towing it. Using a tow strap I can tow it behind my current rover, A 2004 D2. I'd have to let the engine idle while I'm towing it so I have braking and steering but would it be better on the engine? Also, I have 31.5 inch tires on my rover so could I damage my axles by towing another 5,000 pounds?

Stupid questions I know, my excuse is that I'm 18 and don't have any experience under my belt. I'm learning as I go haha.

ALSO I thought id include a beautiful picture I took of the eclipse today:



Thanks in advance guys

 

I like the picture of the eclipse. But what kind of knock does it have? Yes you can tow it. I have seen discos tow another disco on flat bed which are much heavier.

 

If it is already knocking, you have two options...

1. The engine is already toast so what do you have to lose? Drive it home and then decide how to proceed.
2. The "knock" is really only a "tick" and maybe not terminal. Confirm that all the fluids are topped up, and drive home carefully then decide how to proceed.

Point is, on an already noisy engine, 4 miles will probably not make a difference either way.

If you use the tow strap, put it in N and leave the engine off. The brakes and steering will be hard, but still functional. Just go slow and you should be fine. If your towing partner has never been in the rear truck, let them drive the front truck. If I had to choose, I'd put the experienced driver in the dead vehicle.

 

If I had to describe it, it wasn't very loud and definitely wasn't a ticking or metallic sound. Granted that I listened to the knocking when the engine was cold. From what I have heard, it could get louder when the engine warms up depending on what the problem is. The owner said he had some work done from a mechanic that involved taking the heads off, and it knocked from there after. He drove it a quarter mile home and parked it there.

 

Don't drive it home. Don't risk your life or the motor self-towing it. Sign up for AAA and use your 1 free tow or pony up for a professional tow.

The motor isn't toast.

Rod knock is *EASY* to fix with the motor still in the truck. What you will do is order $38 rod bearings from eBay and a new oil pan gasket from Rockauto.com (no affiliation) for about $9.

When they arrive, drain the oil and drop the oil pan. There's a great thread on this forum that has pics of this operation, by the way: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/ (skip down to the rod bearing section and ignore the first main crank bearing instructions since they only need replacing if your blown motor chatters like a diesel).

With the oil pan dropped you'll be able to see 8 rod caps. Each rod cap has 2 bolts. Unbolt a rod cap and remove the cap. Remove the lower rod bearing half from that rod cap. It just slides out. Easy. Now push the piston up an inch or so with your hand and pull out the top rod bearing inside that is in that 1 inch gap (I guess you'd say it is on top of part of the crank??) .

Apply fresh oil only to the inside, nothing on the outside, of the 2 new rod bearing halves and insert them back where you just yanked out your old rod bearing halves. Pull the piston back down so that you can put your rod cap back on and then tighten the two rod cap bolts appropriately.

Now repeat for the other 7 cylinders. Clean your oil pan sump. Install your oil pan gasket. Apply RTV to the 2 small areas indicated in your service manual. Put your oil pan back on.

Refill your motor with fresh, heavy oil. 15W40 or 20W50 might be good.

Start her up. No more rod knock. Notice that you didn't have to remove/replace the front timing chain/oil pump cover. You didn't have to disassemble any components on top of the motor. You didn't have to pull the whole motor.

You just dropped the oil pan. I had to remove 8 bolts that held on a square-edged support bar to drop the oil pan, but maybe you could turn it so that even that isn't needed.

Also notice that you didn't have to jack up your truck.

Changing out rod bearings is barely more than an oil change, and that is *the* problem to solve for rod knock.

 

Could be an exhaust manifold leak, that makes a knocking sound

 

In all honesty it sounds like a truck that has run out of oil in the engine but still been driven. If you drive it home then there is the possibility of throwing a rod through the crankcase. Does the 'knock' increase with rpm's? Is the knock a heavy sounding thud like someone banging on the frame?

If it is a rebuild project then try to trailer the truck home or failing that tow it in neutral but very slowly.

It is a difficult project to start learning on. but hey ho, everyone has to start somewhere.

Bon chance.

PS: Great eclipse photo

 

I already saw the eclipse. Lets see a picture of the rover.

 

Where in North Carolina are you? I'm in Charlotte.

 

Boone!