Purchased a $500 discovery
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
Little Update
Don't drive it home. Don't risk your life or the motor self-towing it. Sign up for AAA and use your 1 free tow or pony up for a professional tow.
The motor isn't toast.
Rod knock is *EASY* to fix with the motor still in the truck. What you will do is order $38 rod bearings from eBay and a new oil pan gasket from Rockauto.com (no affiliation) for about $9.
When they arrive, drain the oil and drop the oil pan. There's a great thread on this forum that has pics of this operation, by the way: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/ (skip down to the rod bearing section and ignore the first main crank bearing instructions since they only need replacing if your blown motor chatters like a diesel).
With the oil pan dropped you'll be able to see 8 rod caps. Each rod cap has 2 bolts. Unbolt a rod cap and remove the cap. Remove the lower rod bearing half from that rod cap. It just slides out. Easy. Now push the piston up an inch or so with your hand and pull out the top rod bearing inside that is in that 1 inch gap (I guess you'd say it is on top of part of the crank??) .
Apply fresh oil only to the inside, nothing on the outside, of the 2 new rod bearing halves and insert them back where you just yanked out your old rod bearing halves. Pull the piston back down so that you can put your rod cap back on and then tighten the two rod cap bolts appropriately.
Now repeat for the other 7 cylinders. Clean your oil pan sump. Install your oil pan gasket. Apply RTV to the 2 small areas indicated in your service manual. Put your oil pan back on.
Refill your motor with fresh, heavy oil. 15W40 or 20W50 might be good.
Start her up. No more rod knock. Notice that you didn't have to remove/replace the front timing chain/oil pump cover. You didn't have to disassemble any components on top of the motor. You didn't have to pull the whole motor.
You just dropped the oil pan. I had to remove 8 bolts that held on a square-edged support bar to drop the oil pan, but maybe you could turn it so that even that isn't needed.
Also notice that you didn't have to jack up your truck.
Changing out rod bearings is barely more than an oil change, and that is *the* problem to solve for rod knock.
The motor isn't toast.
Rod knock is *EASY* to fix with the motor still in the truck. What you will do is order $38 rod bearings from eBay and a new oil pan gasket from Rockauto.com (no affiliation) for about $9.
When they arrive, drain the oil and drop the oil pan. There's a great thread on this forum that has pics of this operation, by the way: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/ (skip down to the rod bearing section and ignore the first main crank bearing instructions since they only need replacing if your blown motor chatters like a diesel).
With the oil pan dropped you'll be able to see 8 rod caps. Each rod cap has 2 bolts. Unbolt a rod cap and remove the cap. Remove the lower rod bearing half from that rod cap. It just slides out. Easy. Now push the piston up an inch or so with your hand and pull out the top rod bearing inside that is in that 1 inch gap (I guess you'd say it is on top of part of the crank??) .
Apply fresh oil only to the inside, nothing on the outside, of the 2 new rod bearing halves and insert them back where you just yanked out your old rod bearing halves. Pull the piston back down so that you can put your rod cap back on and then tighten the two rod cap bolts appropriately.
Now repeat for the other 7 cylinders. Clean your oil pan sump. Install your oil pan gasket. Apply RTV to the 2 small areas indicated in your service manual. Put your oil pan back on.
Refill your motor with fresh, heavy oil. 15W40 or 20W50 might be good.
Start her up. No more rod knock. Notice that you didn't have to remove/replace the front timing chain/oil pump cover. You didn't have to disassemble any components on top of the motor. You didn't have to pull the whole motor.
You just dropped the oil pan. I had to remove 8 bolts that held on a square-edged support bar to drop the oil pan, but maybe you could turn it so that even that isn't needed.
Also notice that you didn't have to jack up your truck.
Changing out rod bearings is barely more than an oil change, and that is *the* problem to solve for rod knock.
Bit of an update:
So I got the truck back to my house and further investigated. It's definitely not running on all 8 cylinders and has an idling issue likely for that reason. It idles around 700 rpm. The engine knock is only present and loud when you give it rpms. I will upload a video of the knocking sound soon!!
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 469
Likes: 193
Looks like a pretty nice truck! I had a similar endeavor with another truck for $600. If I were you, I'd pull the oil pan and take a look for a slightly loose bearing and pull the plugs to see what they look like. Maybe run a compression test.
That $600 truck ended up having a spun rod bearing on #3. Sounded a lot worse than yours, I made a video of it a while back.
That $600 truck ended up having a spun rod bearing on #3. Sounded a lot worse than yours, I made a video of it a while back.
Last edited by CaptainAaron; Aug 23, 2017 at 06:29 PM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 4,865
Likes: 1,409
From: Michigan
Agree^^^sounds like multiple noises. I'd start by removing the belt and eliminate that suspect (pulleys, idlers and such). Check your exhaust manifolds closely, had one go on my 01 that sounded very similar to your beast (pass. side), bought a used one from Paul Grant, nice condition and fast shipping. Also check the crappy SAI tubes, they can become quit brittle over time...and the slightest crack can sound pretty substantial.
I'd probably check vacuum, compression test and monitor oil pressure to see where it stands mechanically.
Good luck, and report back with your findings.
Nice looking rig, hope she's salvageable.
Brian.
I'd probably check vacuum, compression test and monitor oil pressure to see where it stands mechanically.
Good luck, and report back with your findings.
Nice looking rig, hope she's salvageable.
Brian.
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
Thanks everyone for chiming in! I'm moving off to college tomorrow so I won't have as much time to spend on rovers. Not exactly the best time to acquire another one haha.
A compression test will be done in the near future. I'll report back.
A compression test will be done in the near future. I'll report back.
Thread Starter
|
Three Wheeling
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 73
Likes: 4
From: North Carolina
Could you tell what part of the gasket blew? I feel like a leak between two of the cylinders would do that. Performing a compression test soon.