Put on your thinking caps...
#12
I verified voltage. As for spark, after I shocked myself and there were no codes, I quit. I'm going to pull the plugs and check what the oil is in those 3 back pistons (see pics on page 1). I've gotta have my Rover back. Oh, and I'm in the Air Force. I work on KC-135s now, a Boeing 707 variant I believe?
#13
Sooo.... The worst of my fears have become true. This is the plug from the passenger's side, rear-most cylinder.
It was chrome/silver and clean when I installed it during my rebuild less than 3 months ago. It would appear that I have an internal oil leak. Could someone re-affirm this before I tear the engine out, again.
On a side note, I used ARP studs and the composite seal kit from Lucky8. There is no torque value given with these new studs. I used the standard torque value in the manual plus the 90, 90. I only got through the first 85 deg before it started stripping out the head though... just a note.
It was chrome/silver and clean when I installed it during my rebuild less than 3 months ago. It would appear that I have an internal oil leak. Could someone re-affirm this before I tear the engine out, again.
On a side note, I used ARP studs and the composite seal kit from Lucky8. There is no torque value given with these new studs. I used the standard torque value in the manual plus the 90, 90. I only got through the first 85 deg before it started stripping out the head though... just a note.
#14
Sooo.... The worst of my fears have become true. This is the plug from the passenger's side, rear-most cylinder.Attachment 12534
It was chrome/silver and clean when I installed it during my rebuild less than 3 months ago. It would appear that I have an internal oil leak. Could someone re-affirm this before I tear the engine out, again.
On a side note, I used ARP studs and the composite seal kit from Lucky8. There is no torque value given with these new studs. I used the standard torque value in the manual plus the 90, 90. I only got through the first 85 deg before it started stripping out the head though... just a note.
It was chrome/silver and clean when I installed it during my rebuild less than 3 months ago. It would appear that I have an internal oil leak. Could someone re-affirm this before I tear the engine out, again.
On a side note, I used ARP studs and the composite seal kit from Lucky8. There is no torque value given with these new studs. I used the standard torque value in the manual plus the 90, 90. I only got through the first 85 deg before it started stripping out the head though... just a note.
Which threads on your block did you damaged? Did you repair these damaged threads. The threads on the RH #8 Cyl would not have been the first in sequence to torque. Now knowing that you have APR studs, I would say that your torque is probably to low if you just went to 85 degrees. I would have contacted ARP if I had any questions on the torque. Why don't you give them a call and maybe you could get by with re-torquing to the correct value.
Good Luck
Last edited by 0304Disco; 11-13-2012 at 12:24 PM.
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