I will ask about the block top face next time I am there.

 

Dustin,


Shoulda told 'em it was a 215 cu. in. Buick!


Let me know the outcome on the Q&E block. I may consider this at some future point, if I pull the whole kit and kaboodle. I just did the oil change using Rotella T5 15W40 and 'Hot Shot'. It's quieter, but still get a 'tick'. It's not affecting the performance, so I'm not bothered much.


Reminds me of when boys put baseball cards in the bike spokes...

 

When we pay $475 (with discount and free shipping) for a new timing cover/oil pump assembly that almost seems like a deal for heads properly done. Especially with resurfacing included.

Man, I really want one of these top hat retrofitted blocks - that is a thing of beauty. I would take my Disco apart tomorrow if I could start again from scratch with one of these blocks.

 

I'm planning on ordering one next month.

I have a GEMS 4.6 block from a 98' Range Rover with the red paint dab. I'm going to add the studs for the knock sensors and have the CPS sensor bracket from a Bosch block tack welded on. From what I can tell this is the only functional difference.

I have read that the alloy used in the GEMS blocks is superior to the Bosch blocks(reports say BMW opted for a cheaper alloy) and the research I've done shows that up until 02' the 4.6 blocks had the thickest walls based on the after casting inspection process(Red paint dab under valley pan gasket).

I built a 4.6 with an 04' disco block and I think it has a cracked block. Overheats instantly. All the work and money has taught me to only start with a top hat block.

 

Sounds great. With the overbore required to fit the stepped liners some extra thickness in the original manufacture of the casting could prove helpful. This is an excellent tip for anyone (like me) considering having this work done, whether at Q&E or elsewhere. Let us know how the CPS retrofit works out - maybe post pics when everything's done?

With a fresh rebuild the only other factor in overheating would be low oil pressure, which I assume you must not have. So, yes probably a cracked block or compromise between cylinders in the liner jacket.

 

Here is a photo of the cutaway block they have at the shop. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of the top part where you can see there is a good amount of material for the Top hat sleeve. This is a stock sleeve in the photo. The Top hat ones have a small recess near the base for an o ring.

The issue is the walls between the coolant passage and the sleeve. I am not sure what quality block he used for the cutaway.

 

My old '82 RRC 3.5L N.A. was a mega strong block and engine. Wasn't the fastest or sexiest wheels around but it plodded along like a good 'ole trooper.