question/ repair for oil leak
So i went out to take a last look at my truck before ordering parts to see if i could find any other parts that might need replacing. while out there i crawled under and noted that theres a screw missing under my engine but im not sure if its something i should be worried about ( pic below)
second, while under there a noted what looked like a oil leak under the exhaust manifold. i need help identifying a possible gasket i could replace in that area, please take a look at the pics below. one picture was taking under the car and one was taken from above.
last i took some pics of my left side rocker gasket just to see if anyone can confirm if it needs to be replaced or not. i think it should be, just looking for other opinions. id really appreciate any help i can get guys, thanks.



second, while under there a noted what looked like a oil leak under the exhaust manifold. i need help identifying a possible gasket i could replace in that area, please take a look at the pics below. one picture was taking under the car and one was taken from above.
last i took some pics of my left side rocker gasket just to see if anyone can confirm if it needs to be replaced or not. i think it should be, just looking for other opinions. id really appreciate any help i can get guys, thanks.



Many owners find that the valve cover gaskets loosen, and need to be snugged up every oil change. They leak down below. Bolts are 8mm 12 point, skinny socket (3/8 necked down, or 1/4 inch drive). You should wash off the engine before work to locate leaks (power wash at car wash, degreaser, etc.). If you will be removing the oil pan, it can be washed out. Yes, good idea to spay some oil back on inside before assembly (squirt bottle), but engine will do a pretty good job of spashing oil around when re-filled. You can use oil flush before draing the oil (follow instructions on can), but that won't get the big stuff in just a few minuutes of use.
I have never changed the head gasket on a Land Rover but I have done it on a Jetta diesel. So a torque wrench is the most important tool, also be very careful when taking off and putting back on the cylinder head. The reason is that if you screw up the order of which bolt you loosen first, second ect... you can warp your cylinder head. Also remember when loosing the bolts to do is a 1/8 turn on each bolt (in order) and make sure to use new head bolts when putting the cylinder head back on because the bolts stretch overtime.
Edit: Also I am pretty sure the bolts are spline.
Here is a link for some more info:
Rovers North - Technical Tips Installing New Head Gaskets Range Rover | Discovery Parts Defender
Edit: Also I am pretty sure the bolts are spline.
Here is a link for some more info:
Rovers North - Technical Tips Installing New Head Gaskets Range Rover | Discovery Parts Defender
Last edited by thebloody; Jan 24, 2012 at 06:19 PM.
re: which one is the valve cover?
re: can anyone list the tools that ill need for a head gasket job please?
If you have to ask the first question, are we ready for the second (lol)?
Perhaps I did not make myself understood. Valve covers frequently leak oil, dripping down on and around the exhaust manifolds. The covers leak oil because the the bolts holding the gaskets loosen, many owners snug up the 8mm 12 point bolts, four per valve cover, evey oil change.
You'll want to download and study the sections of the RAVE factory shop manual set that covers the HG work. And the bolts stretch on installation, should never be re-used. The RAVE includes the specs for warpage,and angles to measure, .002 inch, your printer paper is like .0038 - not much. A kit of parts is like $300, with bolts, and machine shop work to plane the heads is about $200.
But what other indicators do you have for a head gasket job being required?
re: can anyone list the tools that ill need for a head gasket job please?
If you have to ask the first question, are we ready for the second (lol)?
Perhaps I did not make myself understood. Valve covers frequently leak oil, dripping down on and around the exhaust manifolds. The covers leak oil because the the bolts holding the gaskets loosen, many owners snug up the 8mm 12 point bolts, four per valve cover, evey oil change.
You'll want to download and study the sections of the RAVE factory shop manual set that covers the HG work. And the bolts stretch on installation, should never be re-used. The RAVE includes the specs for warpage,and angles to measure, .002 inch, your printer paper is like .0038 - not much. A kit of parts is like $300, with bolts, and machine shop work to plane the heads is about $200.
But what other indicators do you have for a head gasket job being required?
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Jan 24, 2012 at 07:13 PM.
Most owners here are doing HG because of coolant leaks and over heating. Misfires, even multiple ones, are frequently plugs and wires and sometimes coils. Of course the valve covers have their own gaskets. But armed with the RAVE shop manual you'll have an easy time of it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TennesseeRover
Discovery I
11
Mar 19, 2014 08:16 AM




