Not a bad price on the poly bushings. Shipping would probably be kinda expensive, but even so... the yellow ones, you should be able to get in for about $100-120. The black maybe $150-175.

I'm not seeing any on the Lucky 8 website. I might call tomorrow and see what they have and what they recommend. Even if I were to go with the poly bushings though, I'd have to have a shop press out the old bushings because I don't have the necessary tools.

I did find them on the John Craddock site here (https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/la...polybush-kits/).

I also see them on Paddock, who I've ordered from a long time ago. Looks like a few dollars cheaper, but still similar price. Can be found here (http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-a...bush-kits.html).

I am worried still about longevity though. I drive 20,000+ miles per year. Do I care to replace them every 2-3 years? Two I would begrudgingly accept. Three I would be happy with cause I could just tie it in with my 60k maintenence. Am I willing to replace them yearly or twice yearly? Definitely not. I'm far too busy for that. Edit: No I can't. That's an hour away and I don't have another vehicle to drive that far. Back to the shop idea it is.

Might be worth the $100 gamble. Will be a real pain in the a** getting the old out, but I think that's the case no matter what. I could always get my girlfriend's dad to burn them out with his acetylene torch I reckon.

 

Not really a gamble - I tried the yellow Britpart's and they're kaput after 2,000 miles.

Having a hard time stomaching the cost of the SuperPros... with shipping thats over $500! But you can probably buy the radius arm bushings separately for a lot less $.

Maybe the Floflex are better? Looks like those don't need a press.

I haven't seen those black ones by Britpart yet. The descriptions are the same as the yellows.

 

I've gotta believe that's gotta be a bad batch. I mean, 2k miles? That couldn't be normal.

It definitely makes me leery of them, but it's still a gamble since yours is only one single data point.

That said, the blacks being double the price of the yellows also leads me to believe (hope, rather) that they're higher quality than the yellows.

 

In truth Alex, you need a press if you use LR original bushes, to remove the old ones you can achieve 25 tons on the press gauge whereas the new bushes slide in with less that 10 tons with some lubricant and if you deep freeze them overnight in their boxes or wrapped up in newspaper.
The other option is laborious, chain drill the rubber between the inner and outer metals of the bush and then remove the centre sleeve and then hacksaw with either a handsaw or electric saw through the outer bush casing carefully avoiding damaging the radius arm. Clean up the radius arm with some emery on a die grinder and press the new bushes after lubricating them using an HD vice.

 

Yeah, and sadly I don't have access to one. I really wish I did! A nice hydraulic job would be sweet. Sadly, I lost access to that beauty when I chose not to go back to the same college this year. Alas...

I've drilled bushings before. It's a pain in the a**. Either way I go I'm considering taking them to a shop to have the old ones pressed or burned out.

I also found out today when I crawled under my truck that my rotoflex was in even worse shape than I thought! She is well and truly about to let loose, which makes sense after 15 years/148k miles. Luckily I've already got a D1 rear driveshaft sitting in my garage and a pinion flange on the way from TarheelRover.

 

Get the black ones then, they appear to not require a press (per description) whereas the yellow ones do. Hopefully they're also higher quality.

Maybe if I had used grease, like this stuff, Mine wouldn't have torn. But I forgot.

lrdirect usually has the best shipping rates. And they're live. https://www.lrdirect.com/DC7101-Poly...keep_https=yes

 

Ahhhhh, yeah. Not using grease will kill poly bushings because they actually move around inside what they're in; they don't deform like rubber bushings which are a friction fit so they can't rotate in the arm.

 

TIP: Like a Watts linkage, never torque up the bolts on the radius arms until the truck is loaded with self weight. The way to do this is to put axle stands under the front and rear axles first then crawl under and torque up the bolts or better still if you have access to a 4 post vehicle lift let the truck down onto it's wheels and then torque up the bolts. This saves the rubber or poly bushes twisting and destroying themselves prematurely.

 

Yeah, that's a great tip I wish was more commonly shared. Learned that the hard way replacing the control arms on my Silverado 9 months or so ago.

 

A pity I'm not closer, I have a 20 ton press, but hey ho, there ya go. Chain drilling the rubber has to be a real PITA job not that I've done it but heard others reports on the problems.

IMHO stick with the GKN Rotoflex as it takes some of the shock away from the rear diff and the LT230 rear flange.