agree 100% you need new head bolts. not the place to cheap out.

 

Thanks, I was just checking...I've done a few head gasket jobs and have always used new ones, just wanted others opinions!

 

Ok, I'm gonig to do this myself...may as well with all the money I already put into this thing.

I've done a few Chevy 350's and a 4cyl Chevy in the past.

Is there anything different I need to do with the disco? Do I need to send the head to a machine shop???

Thanks,
Steve

 

order a head gasket & bolt set from AB along with an upper intake gasket, you will most likely have it tommorow like i said I'm right around the corner and alway get the parts the next day.

You can check the heads with a straight edge, but if it has over heated and the gasket is blown out (like it sounds) you will need to have them milled.

To do the job you need a copy of the rave, a 25-inch 1/2 drive breaker bar with a shallow 5/8 impact socket, an 8mm 12pt 1/4 drive socket,36mm fan wrench & 1/2 torque wrench. The breaker bar and 5/8 are to remove the head bolts, the 8mm 12pt is for the valve covers, 36 mm to remove the clutch fan, torque wrench to reassemble everything, it all need to be torqued.

 

Thanks for all the info, this is great and a HUGE help with getting all the tools lined up ahead of time!

I really appreciate it. Should I send the head out to be machined or would I be ok???

 

You can check the heads with a straight edge, but if it has over heated and the gasket is blown out (like it sounds) you will need to have them milled. Send both heads out, not just the bad one.

 

The out of flatness spec is .002 inch, your printer paper is .0038 thick, not much. Most machine shops will do the heads, plus replace seals (you supply them) for like $200. Avoid my competition - Backwoods Bubba and his belt sander....

 

the valve guide seals will come with the AB set, you will want a new t-stat while your there.
And get yourself a couple of bundgy cords, unbolt the exhaust manifolds from the heads but leave the exhaust connected just hang the manifolds off to the side with the cords.

 

While you are starting this project, consider other things you can do or test at same time.

One thing could be to do a PSI test on fuel pump, the hard to get to schrader valve will be exposed as you take off top of intake.

Another place to test is the oil PSI switch, use a manual tester to see if oil pump is up to spec. Pix of a cracked one, pumped, just not enough PSI. Can be a source of the "tick".

Water pumps do get old and wobbly , and when they wobble they are eating aluminum.