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TPS or Throttle Body or scrap heap???

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Old 08-19-2011, 08:23 PM
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Angry TPS or Throttle Body or scrap heap???

This last Monday I was driving my new Freelander just a few days after purchasing. I was driving along and out of the blue it acted like it was running out of gas. I was a low and thought that my gas guage was off, so pulled off to get some gas. At the same time that I started losing power my TC and downhill lights both came on along with the service engine light. I filled up, drove off and the lights reset (went off) and then when I got say over 30 mph, I had this jerk in the rear end, I began losing power and the lights all came on again (TC, downhill and service engine). The vehicle was herky-jerky as if something was wrong with the rear end in the transmission. I was able to drive it to a nearby Autozone and they checked the codes and according to their computer it showed a bad "TPS". According to some research (off this site) I also came to the conclusion that this must be the case (faulty TPS). So I ordered a TPS online. But I do not see anywhere it will go. I've taken the top plastic cover (that houses the air filter), removed the Mass Air Flow sensor, removed the duct work to the Throttle control body and alas, still no TPS. My only conclusion is that the TPS is located within the Throttle body itself, which of course, looks like I would be UNABLE to rebuild and thus would not need a TPS. I would then need a new Throttle body. So my new adventure with the Land Rover has been extremely FRUSTRATING to say the least. So, there you have it. My frustration, exasperation and my need to get this buggy back on the road. My nearest Land Rover stealership is 1.5 hours away. Had I known that LRs are so difficult to work on, I woulnd't have bought this thing. I like to think of myself as an OK mechanic. I just failed to do a better job of doing my research and I'm kicking myself all over the place. Sorry for the long narrative. But wanted to give the best picture I possibly can. Thanks for reading and for possible solutions.

This is a 2002 Freelander 2.5L V6. 49K miles. Purchased for $6500 and probably was a HUGE waste of my money after doing further research online (which I should have done a better job BEFORE purchasing!) I had no intent of going toward LR, but the black, shiny, pretty thing called my name. I thought I would have been lucky getting a rig at under 50K miles. But I guess when you think you're getting a steal, you're probably getting highjacked somewhere else. Hope someone can help me out there!!!!
 
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Old 08-19-2011, 08:37 PM
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With so many "electrical" things going on at once, you may also have a battery / dirty power lead issue. Also worthwhile to check battery with voltmeter, under a good load (like AC and head lights on), and to remove and clean terminals with a wire brush. There have been a number of posts about multiple gremlins that were improved by new battery, etc.

Have you downloaded the free RAVE tech manual? I found this blurb that may help, don't think they call it TPS on that model: (under Engine Management EMS sensors)

The APP sensor enables the ECM to determine the throttle position requested by the driver on the accelerator pedal.
The APP sensor is installed on the pedal box and consists of a twin track potentiometer with wipers driven by a linkage
connected to the accelerator pedal. Each potentiometer track has a 5 volt supply and ground connection from the
ECM, and produces a linear signal voltage to the ECM proportional to the position of the accelerator pedal. The signal
voltage from track 1 of the potentiometer is approximately double that of the signal voltage from track 2.
From the sensor signals, the ECM determines driver demand as a percentage of pedal travel, where 0% is with the
pedal released and 100% is with the pedal fully depressed. Driver demand is then used to calculate throttle angle,
fuel quantity and ignition timing. The ECM also outputs driver demand on the CAN system, for use by the brake and

gearbox control systems.

In the RAVE download, the Freelander portion is in directory "ln01"

IMHO the idea of potentiometers linked to gas pedal is not new, I've got that on my John Deere compact 35 hp diesel tractor. But the pots get dirty, wires get snatched by heavy brush, all sorts of things. It is the computer geeks (no offense to any IT professionals) method of eliminating the fixed throttle cable and doing everything with servo motors and multiple sensors linked by non-standard propietary communications protocols on a buss architecture that is not fault tolerant. Translation - engineered by those who never drove one, much less worked on it.
 

Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 08-19-2011 at 08:47 PM.
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Old 08-19-2011, 10:23 PM
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Thank you...I'll be reading the Rave tech manual...
 
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:13 AM
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actually its probably an issue with the throttle body connector. There is a bulletin about it that we got from BMW that is basically the connector end causing issues. you can ask the dealer for the throttle body connector recall. They should be able to pull up the recall. If they can't the service advisor can and get you the correct info.

the rear end bump is probably the rear diff bushing in the front gone bad.
 
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:38 PM
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Throttle body connector? Is that the from the ECU to the Throttle body itself (as in electrical issue) or is it have to do with how it connects for the air flow? I had some oil in the 4 in tube leading to the Mass Air Flow... Is that normal?
 
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Old 08-20-2011, 02:43 PM
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What about the rear diff bush in the front end? Is that a big issue? Wouldn't the bump happen all the time rather than intermittently?
 
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Old 08-20-2011, 07:00 PM
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the diff bushing causes a thump thru the body of the vehicle on low speed parking manuever.

Also, the connector is actually the end of the Throttlebody.

Found the bulletin part number. And its not a recall its just a bulletin for the problem.

YMQ501850

thats the part number for the connector part. its basically the connector end with six wires you have to solder to the old harness.
 
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Old 08-23-2011, 02:32 PM
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Rovin4life -

Thanks for the response. The thump happened when I was driving 50-55MPH. Thought the entire back end was going to drop out.

I've not been able to find that part number. Is there a cross reference or another way to find it other than google. Or am I stuck with taking it to a LR dealership?

Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old 08-23-2011, 03:06 PM
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Perhaps some of the online sources, like Atlantic British, RoversNorth, AutohausAZ, BP Utah, and more?
 
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Old 08-24-2011, 08:27 PM
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yeah, its a dealer part. just ask for the part and they will order for you. Seriously, not every part can be found online. Some you have to get at the dealer. Thats normal.

But the diff bushing you might get online but its the front one that goes not the side ones.
 


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