Quick question- I am right now replacing my radiator and started pulling parts off when I noticed my engine fan spin freely when stone cold. I didn't think it was supposed to do that...it usually roars for a few seconds on start so I assumed it was good to go

thanks guys

 

If the serpantine belt is attached, the fan mounted to the water pump should not spin more than 1 revolution when released. Should feel like peanut butter inside the viscous clutch. A new one will stop in maybe a quarter of a revolution. Heated up may coast a little more, but still be under the 1 revolution limit.

So time to head to the parts store, fan clutch for 2000 Chevy Express van w/o air conditioning 4.3 liter; you will have to enlarge the holes in the fan slightly for the larger mounting bolts on the new clutch. About $60. Rent their fan bolt wrench while you are there. Smack it hard and fast with a hammer toward the passenger side of the truck. Not a love tap, a real b**** slap.

Can drive like it is as long as you are moving, at 50 mph you don't even need the fan. But idling in traffic or the drive thru will overheat you soon. A work around would be to remove the electric fan relay and jumper the contacts so it is always running. But small electric fan is a supplement to the main fan, not a replacement.

 

Always there for us Savannah! thanks pal- this is the damndest thing- I go back out the survey it once more and I get the 'peanut butter" feel....Is it "going bad" do you think? Napa by me has one for $95! Oh and believe me- I will slap it GOOOOOD!

 

Oh, and a new water pump should be in the budget, the new fan clutch and old pump won't behave the same as two that have been spinning around the dance floor for something on the order of 200 million revolutions. Mirco imbalances worn into each other are suddenly back against a factory fresh one. The other pair grew old together and learned to live with the small imperfections each had. If we all did that divorce attorneys would have to go back to chasing ambulances.....

 

The test is two part, cold, and warmed up. In both cases should not free wheel. If it had been freewheeling, overheat at slow and idle should have been noticed, not like you are in the frozen north, just surrounded by all the transplants.

 

Thanks for the help and I always appreciate your humor! HAHA Anyway, I checked the fan a few more times during the radiator swap and got positive results each time...could never duplicate the free spin...going to change it out next weekend at any rate, as its original to my 140k. drove the truck with new rad and highest idle temp I got was 195 in 87 degree FLA weather ( I was anywhere between 221 and 230 before ) so I'm a pretty happy camper

 

I step further, when testing the viscus clutch first do it prior to a cold start to find the amount os spinning resistance, do it later after the engine has been running around town, it should have twice the spinning resistance .
Also replace your coolant pressure cap and install a new 180 degree soft spring t/stat to help the engine run cooler. I did this last month and dropped 12 to 13 degrees at a 5 to 10 minute idle, 10 degrees cooler while in town driving and 6 or 7 degrees when at highway speeds with the A/C off.

 

Thanks Mike- got a new cap & 180- t-stat installed. Thanks for the clutch tip!