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The pin for my rear door check strap is a rusted and rotted away nub. I ordered a new one, and was surprised to find it is simply a metal dowel with slots for circlips on BOTH sides.
I can't find any info on how to remove this or where to remove it. I can't see the other end of the pin and it seems like I need to remove the bumper to access it.
anyone have any clues how to install this pin or if I need to remove the rear bumper to do so?
Bringing this back from the dead to see if OP figured this out or if anyone else can help advise. I need to replace this pin as well...
I ended up cutting threads onto the old rusty pin so the strap could be attached and then a nut could be threaded on. We sold the disco about a year ago but it worked perfect the entire time we had it.
Can't recall the die size, you would have to measure the diameter and look it up in a tap and die chart. If you ever figure out how to remove it I may still have a replacement pin you can have if you paid shipping.
Been meaning to respond but I wanted to put up a picture as well.
I didn't replace the pin.
I just drilled and tap a 10-32 in the top and put a washer with a hole small enough that a flat head screw wouldn't go through.
It's a low enough profile that is doesn't touch the door bottom when closed.
My pin was cut off down to a nub by previous owner. I had a donor car with a good pin. I understand you can purchase the pin, but it is welded in place and I don't believe there is any way to replace it without cutting panels. In the first image I show the donor car with some spot welds cut out and the panels cut. With the top cover over the pin removed (2nd image) the panel that holds the pin in place is revealed. Note that it was a mistake to cut out the two spot welds above and two below the pin. The third image shows the panel holding the pin after removal from a side view. The next image is that panel from the bottom showing how the pin is welded in place. The last image shows the trimmed panels installed in the receptor car, welded in place and the welds ground flat. The next step is to apply a layer of body filler, primer, and paint.
Not recommending this for everyone but maybe it will help the next person trying to install the pin you can buy from the dealers. Short answer is you can't. Mine was too far gone to even drill into but I had a donor car and welder. The pin is welded into a layer of steel below the surface. In the pics the red car is the vehicle being repaired and black the donor. Just a nub. Donor Vehicle. Side view of part removed from donor. Welded. Cover piece welded. Ground. Primed.
Bringing this thread back up. Is this really true? That seems totally ridiculous that it's not replaceable but the part is available.
I actually bought the pin a while back assuming you could pull it from underneath. The pin is grooved on both ends so that made me think there was a clip in the top and bottom.
Anyone else attempt to replace this? I wonder if it can be accessed from underneath? If anything I wonder if it makes more sense to cut underneath, drill the pin out, and then replace the pin...at least this way you aren't cutting into the door sill.
Bringing this thread back up. Is this really true? That seems totally ridiculous that it's not replaceable but the part is available.
I actually bought the pin a while back assuming you could pull it from underneath. The pin is grooved on both ends so that made me think there was a clip in the top and bottom.
Anyone else attempt to replace this? I wonder if it can be accessed from underneath? If anything I wonder if it makes more sense to cut underneath, drill the pin out, and then replace the pin...at least this way you aren't cutting into the door sill.
Just look at the pics. Its welded in place. I do think you could minimize work by cutting off the original and drilling it out and then welding it in from above.
This is an old thread, so I am not sure if I mentioned it here, but my post was a little rotted but still solid. What I ended up doing, since the retainer no longer worked, was cut a thread at the top and put a nut on the top of the post as a retainer.
Just look at the pics. Its welded in place. I do think you could minimize work by cutting off the original and drilling it out and then welding it in from above.
This is an old thread, so I am not sure if I mentioned it here, but my post was a little rotted but still solid. What I ended up doing, since the retainer no longer worked, was cut a thread at the top and put a nut on the top of the post as a retainer.
Yeah, I just can't believe they welded it in place...
I wonder if the top part of the post could be cut off, then cut the new post in half, thread the bottom of new post and top of old post, and then connect the two with a double end screw? This way you could replace the top if it gets rusty again.