I remember being very happy with my panhard conversion when I did it a few years ago, and I intend to do the same to my newest rig.

To me, functionally a panhard conversion and the extended watts link are very similar in terms of functionality. I prefer the panhard for a couple reasons.

First is cost. Most of the time I have the material laying around to whip up a panhard conversion for free or very close to it. That's a lot better deal than the extended watts link. Even if I had to go out and buy materials (a kit is not required, you can get parts locally) it is similarly priced or cheaper.

Second is servicablility. If I get out and break something, I can just go to Tractor Supply or Rural King to buy some tube and heim joints, weld it up, and I'm right back on the road same day. Compared to waiting 3-7 days on replacement watts link parts, I like that a lot better.

That is different for some folks who don't have the metal fab experience, skill, or availability, but this is my viewpoint on it. Hell, it happened to me 4 months ago on my daily driver Tahoe. The panhard bar on the rear end had rusted and came in two (Mr. Toad's Wild Ride on the way home!). I got home and used some scrap tube, head bolts out of a 318 mopar, and modified leaf spring bushings for an 80s dodge. I was back together in an hour and it's been like that since.

Just my 2¢. I don't think there's a right or wrong, just different things work for different folks. You've got to weigh your skills, budget, and availability to come to your own conclusion.

 

I'm about to make my own extended watts just need to order materials, have a set from a buddy's truck I'm going to copy. Only going this direction for now as I'd love to play around with a more custom suspension set up on the truck and don't want to go plating and welding to the frame until I have a more solid plan.

 

Hey guys. I just upgraded from a 2" lift to a 3" lift. I do a lot of highway driving and suddenly this beast floats all over the place. I read somewhere that a panhard conversion can help with the floating. I noticed Chris Fritsch (Dark Crow Designs) is now making a bolt on panhard. I have his front an rear bumpers and sliders and it's really high quality stuff. But will a panhard conversion really fix the floating I have now that I have gone to 3" or do I need to look elsewhere?

https://www.facebook.com/DarkCrowDesigns/

 

Not a fan of the design. It does zero the address the frame mount weakness. The rest looks passable, but there's also not much of a reason for the bar to be bent like it is. I see that as introducing stress to the bar itself that is unnecessary. Looks like a something you'll have trouble with to me.

Edit: Ah, I see the point. It is to avoid cutting off the watts mount. It is pretty close to that watts mount as well, I'm thinking on compression of the suspension when the truck is level, such as thru a dip, off a ledge, or over an agressive speed bump, those two may hit one another. I also think the axle side mount should be boxed or gusseted better.

 

After looking through the pics I agree with Alex, clever for sure but I'd feel better with a stronger set up. Also looking at their flexed out pic with the front loader, I'm fairly certain mine does that easily with no issues on the stock watts link...

Alex do you have any photos of your panhard set up?

 

I feel certain that I do, let me dig around and see what I can find. If I can't find any I will take some next time I'm out of my folks place.

 

I'm in no rush, I've been kicking around the idea of linking the front and rear of my white one. Buddy with a RRC is wrapping up a linking his and holy crap the articulation is bonkers, even 50/50 split on 14" shocks up front and rear (with full range of motion) is pretty epic on a rover.

 

Ok, I did a little digging and the only ones I could find were the pictures in my original write up. Man... I find myself looking at these old write ups and wondering, "How in the world did I have time to make this?" I miss doing them! Maybe one day I'll be able to again.

Anyway, here's the link to that.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-%2450-86992/

 

are you sure you feel the sway is in rear?
A lot of guys have personal preferences over the castor correction once up at 3” + lift.
It didn’t bother me, I was used to the ride. Then I installed RTE castor correct arms bc I believed down the rd I wanted to go slightly bigger tire & it’s an enjoyable difference. It did tighten the road manners a bit.

 

no I think you are right - it is in the front. I didn’t have the problem until I added the 1” to the front. Going to get the new track arm and drag link then get it realigned and go from there.