At the risk of jinxing myself, I think the problem is at last solved.

I removed the RR wheel last night to again try to diagnose the problem, and when I unplugged the connector the wires fell out of the sensor-side connector. Pilot error. I like the connectors I bought that are linked in an earlier post in this thread, but I did not buy the crimping tool, crimping the terminals with my needle-nose pliers. I apparently didn't crimp them well enough, which allowed them to disconnect when I was tidying up the wires. Last night I installed a new harness-side, female connector, crimping more carefully this time. I drove the truck to work today (15 miles) and all seems well again.

I still don't understand the 68 - Unknown Fault code. The ABS fault code list at Storey Wilson's RSW Solutions web site lists 064, 065, 066 and 067 codes as "sensor electric fail" for the four sensors, but 068 is not listed. I would have expected an 067, Rear Right Sensor Electric Fail. Oh well.

 

Uh ... nope. Problem not solved.

About a third of the way home from work this afternoon the Three Amigos chimes and lights came on. When I got home and read the code and it was the same as in the beginning of the problem, late last year - Rear Right Sensor, Signal Erratic, Intermittent.

Deep breath.

The sensor is new, as are the connections to the harness. Best4x4 has had success replacing the sensor and bypassing the connector near the wheel. I replaced the sensor and installed a new connector as described and linked above. So what could be the problem?

I looked at the electrical circuits and the electrical library manuals and found that the rear ABS wires don't run directly to the SLABS. They instead run to connector C0392, which is the gray connector between the coolant reservoir and the engine compartment fuse box. The wires from the right rear are pins 3 and 4, so I'm going to try disconnecting, cleaning, and reconnecting that connector and see what happens.

I'm not looking forward to trying to route the wire for a new sensor from the right rear to the engine compartment, so I hope other solutions prevail. Please wish me luck. And if any of you have run the wire from the right rear to connector C0392 I'd love to hear from you. Thanks.

 

You should be able to get a meter & Ohm out the wires leading back to the RR sensor & from the other side of the harness connector to the SLABS unit. If the connector is the issue yep try to clean them, or a worse case senario would be to use 3M butt connectors and bypass the harness connector under the hood completely.

The only other thing that can cause erratic sensor readings besides the sensor itself or the wiring is an early SLABS Unit with the oldest firmware (they were very sensitive in the early years 99-02 & LR eventually set it up better in the later 03-04 SLABS Unit firmware), or a hub with a bearing issue.

 

Yeah, I'm thinking it's probably the hub. The SLABS is from an '04 (SRD000150), and I don't see why the connector under the hood would be the problem. Who knows?

Prices for hubs vary greatly, from $59 on eBay to over $500 for JEN YOU EYNE Land Rover. It's interesting that Lucky 8 doesn't have any than the over $500 versions listed at their web site. They have a front hub for $103 but not a rear (TAY100050). I suppose I could get a used one from one of the three boneyard trucks nearby, but I think in this case I prefer new.

I'm interested in input from those of you who've replaced hubs about what you bought and why, plus what your experiences have been. Thanks.

 

 

Crimping with needle nose pliers isn't going to cut it. Especially if you reused the pin terminals that the wires pulled out of the first time. This system NEEDS proper voltage continuity and if you've got poor connections, it's going to freak the car out and you're not gonna have a good time

I think you're also overthinking it and over engineering with the fancy connector. Cut the connector out, use good Quality(KEY!!) heat shirinking butt splice connectors(non-split tube is the best option) and wire the sensors right into the body harness. If you still have issues and it still giving you erratic electrical performance codes, you have a wiring problem upstream and its time to actually follow factory instructions and run the wires all the way up front.

 

 

Best, if the hub assembly is bad, are there other symptoms that might be present? Also, I recall reading years ago that pads and rotors can trigger a wheel speed sensor fault but I don't understand how that would happen. What about the pads or rotor would disturb the relationship between the sensor and sensor ring?

I'll test electrical resistance this weekend.

 

No, worn pads and rotors would not affect ABS sensor...unless rubbing on wiring harness (which would be obvious).

Jack up right rear, install jack stand, grasp wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock (or 3 and 9) and rock in and out. You're looking for side to side - apposed - in and out movement. Usually a bad hub will throw a code, signal erratic. Normally, if the hub is bad to the point where it throws this code...you will feel movement, as mentioned, or see wear marks on the sensor end.

But, bad connections or wiring harness will cause this also. You have to have solid, water tight connections...or you will get codes.

​​​​​​​ Brian.