My bad...misread...thought he said worn pads and rotor. Yes, a warped rotor could cause this...but l'm going to say...it would have to be warped to the point of just about taking the wheel out of your hands while braking. To change the air-gap inside the hub, this would take substantial hub variation/flex. Hitting a curb , while rounding a corner, with the side of the tire at twenty mph or so could do this. "IF" the rotor is causing the sensor to move enough to set code, change air-gap, l'd say the hub would have to be bad to allow this much movement while braking.

So, yes...putting new/true rotors on a vehicle could stop the code from being set...but...you didn't really fix the issue...in my opinion. You just appeased the problem area.

If this was a front hub issue, l believe you would be seeing a code everytime you made a hard turn at road speed (because there is a lot more flex/deflection in the front hub assembly during this action). But, since this is a rear hub...if you don't feel any movement or sloppiness...l'd go back to the sensor/harness/connections and such.

Brian.

 

Also, l've never, ever seen a rear rotor warped to the point of doing anything. In my opinioin, they are to small (single blade) to make any type of serious flex/deflection in the hub.

​​​​​​​ Brian.

 

Well the D2's I saw with the erratic ABS faults were not cared for well at all. Lady drivers mostly who were hard on the brakes, using cheapest parts available, cheapest labor, and oh the other MAJOR factor back in the day bling bling aftermarket wheels which had a different offset and would cut the hub life in half. All that combined = ABS 3 Amigo nightmare.

The issue with the rear rotors I came across were OEM rotors with big lips on the edge (worn rotors) that were not turned and then someone just slapped on some cheap aftermarket pads that were wider vs the OEM stuff and it caused the pad to actually not sit flat due to the edge/lip on the rotors. That caused erratic readings for sure on the older 99-02 firmware SLABS.

I had an 03 with crazy TC/ABS activity at slow speeds. Owner was completely frustrated as the LR dealer told them they needed new brakes all the way around, new hubs, new sensors, and some recalibration BS. I looked at it and pulled LF erratic sensor faults. I cleared the fault and boom within 1/4 of mile it was back. I inspected the rotor, pads, and found nothing wrong. I went ahead and removed the caliper, rotor, and caliper guide assembly to inspect the ABS sensor itself. When I went to insert the allen to remove it I was shocked to find the darn sensor was completely LOOSE!!!! You could actually wiggle it and even pull up on it slightly. I went ahead and removed it to to inspect it, cleaned it, re-installed it with some blue loctite on the allen head bolt, and re-installed everything. Cleared the fault and it never came back on again. LR quoted them nearly 2k to fix it. I fixed it with a .50 dab of loctite and charged the customer 100.00 for my time.

 

I tested for play in the right rear hub today and found none. I tested resistance at the connector next to the reservoir and it was within spec. I'm the guy who always says diagnose, diagnose, diagnose, so I won't order a new hub until I get around to testing resistance from the SLABS connector but that will likely be next weekend. Stay tuned.

 

Okay, I just read the RAVE instructions for replacing a rear hub. Step 10 of the removal instructions say to use a press to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub. I don't have access to a press. Step 10 of the refit instructions say to tighten the drive shaft nut to 360 lbf.ft. I don't have the tools to do that, and if it was torqued to that value at the factory I probably don't have the tools to remove the old nut in the first place.

I've gone back and read old threads on the topic. I have an air compressor, so I could buy an inexpensive air impact wrench at HF to get the stake nut off and I could borrow/rent a tool from a parts store to separate the hub from the shaft. But several have written that regardless of having appropriate tools the process was difficult.

I could detect absolutely no play in the hub when I checked it over the weekend. The rear brake pads have about 3/16" of material on them so they need to be changed soon. They have been on for over 10 years and have ~70,000 miles on them, and even then the rotor was not changed, just the pads. I'm going to just go ahead and change the pads and rotors and ensure the calipers are operating freely and see if the wheel speed sensor fault returns. I'll tackle the hub only if the Three Amigos return after the pads and rotors are replaced. Stay tuned.

 

 

Best, are you saying that with the method you describe the hub comes off the shaft and the shaft stays in place, just like the fronts? That'd be great.

That said, since it'll need brakes soon anyway I'm going to go ahead with that and see what happens. But it's good to have your advice in case I end up needing to replace the hub. Thanks.

 

 

Okay, I changed out the rear rotors and pads today. I'm not at all confident that will banish the Amigos, but if it does it will be an interesting data point. As I said, the rear brakes were over 10 years old with over 70,000 miles on them so they were due to be replaced soon anyway.

Changing the brakes was by the book, except that it took more pressure than normal the compress the right rear piston into its bore. I was able to get it done with my C-clamp, but it was noticeably more difficult than the left-hand caliper. I don't know what that indicates (other than I perhaps need a new caliper), or if the caliper may have somehow contributed to the 87 - Rear Right sensor, Signal erratic, Intermittent fault.

I've driven about 40 miles in three trips; so far so good. The truck is not my daily driver, but I'll drive it more frequently now just to test it. If it goes for a couple dozen drives and decent miles maybe I'll declare victory. I'll report back in a month or so, or sooner if the Amigos return making it time to replace the hub. Stay tuned.