ECU software / firmware may be different too.
Different fuel map maybe.
But may be not.

 

Check out my threads - my block passed a pressure test left overnight with a 1000W Halogen work light over it to try and simulate heat from a running engine. After removing the cylinder sleeves, I found my leak:

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...estions-57629/

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-inside-57982/

I paid $510 for block work to install the sleeves and about $600 for the sleeves from Tuner Engineering in the UK (2 day delivery to anywhere in the USA). The sleeves are made by Darton and have the o-ring at the bottom. When I called LA Sleeves and Darton, neither had a full set of sleeves in stock. It was cheaper AND faster to buy from England.

I also had my block work done by a local Honda tuner as they mainly work on aluminum engines and re-sleeves Hondas all the time. LA Sleeve and Q&E engineering would have been $1,500 for everything, PLUS shipping the block there AND back cross-country from the East Coast. It would taken 1-2 weeks after they received it - it just didn't work out for me.

Oh, and the middle plug on the back of the engine is for the camshaft, it is not a freeze plug - the ones on either side of it are.

 

Hey jthomas

I checked out your videos prior to this and it was what made me decide to resleeve. I figured it out after about the middle plug, just had a brain lapse but I think this block has had work done.
A quick question here, would the factory put "B" pistons in or aren't these for a rebore later down the road. The pistons in my engine are the B's which tells me work has been done and the poor crank is suffering from bad scoring on the mains. Bottom line is a rebuild is in order and needs to been done right. One thing is, Jeeps are a lot cheaper to work on but, Rover's are a hell of alot beter looking.

 

Oh ya, I have been taking pics so I will post them hopefully tomorrow.

 

Mine is a 2003 and were B's as well. I couldn't tell if it had been rebuilt before. I did have composite gaskets on it though, so looks like someone did that.

 

Another quick question:
To keep this engine from any over heating issues I was thinking of electric fans but need to know if the factory vicous unit is push or pull?

 

I have now pics of the tear down and cleaning to get the block ready to send out for resleeving. One thing I did notice is on the timing cover were the coolant port is on the left side (drivers) the gasket was in really bad shape. I have read threads about the timing cover gasket failing and causing the coolant to leak into the oil pan. I think this is what have happened here, I will post the pics for anyones opinion on this.

The block:

 

Here is the timing cover:


Thought I might share this, its sludge that was stuck in the bottom of the oil pan which was atleast 3/4" thick.


And now a nice clean block:

 

A crank in need of some polishing:

 

Thinking about a cam change and was thinking about this one, does anyone have any experiance with this:

Buick - 215, 300 & 340
Performance level 1 - Mileage Compu-Pro - Enhances throttle response and low end torque while delivering fuel efficient drivability.
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 184°/190° RR: 1.6/1.6 Gross Lift: .402”/.421” LSA: 112° RPM: Idle to 3500 Redline: 4000

Details

Part Number 50227
Engine Make Buick
Year 1961-1967
Part Class Camshaft
Camshaft Name Mileage Compu-Pro
Camshaft Series Compu-ProEngine
Type V8
Engine Size 215, 300 & 340
Product Type Hydraulic Flat Tappet
Valve Lash .000" intake and .000" exhaust
Lobe center 112
Advertised Duration: Intake / Exhaust246 / 253
Duration @ .050" Lift: Intake / Exhaust184 / 190
Lobe Lift: Intake / Exhaust.251 / .263
Rocker Ratio: Intake / Exhaust1.6 / 1.6
Gross Valve Lift: Intake / Exhaust.402 / .421
CID 300
Performance Level 1
Low RPM Idle
Peak HP 3500
Redline 4000