I would agree if alarm light is not lit up, he won't be in immobilize. The BCU provides the switched ground to the crank relay, and we be cranking. But if the ECM is not powered up (blown fuse) or something else (like a bad inertia switch or loose connector on same, or a loose connector on bottom of underhood fues box), main relay won't pull in. Without main, lots of sensors don't power up, and power is withheld from the fuel pump relay. So if I had verrry long arms, (or a helper), I'd turn on the key, and listen/feel for relay main (#9 I believe) to click in. Then also do the same for fuel pump relay.

 

My alarm light never comes on. Locking doors or unlocking. I don't think I have ever seen the alarm led on. I agree with you, a hardware store cut key will work with the car. When I bought it, that is the only key the owner's had and they said they drove it with that for a year. It drove like that when I first got it. Dead battery jump starting etc. only after disconnecting the battery for six weeks am I having these problems. Should the LED be coming on when I lock the door with the key? I am a little worried cause the dealer said the only way to program the remote was to hook up a computer to the car. This is not good as the closest dealer is 3 hours away. I don't understand the bit about the handset etc. and the magnetic field around the key tumbler. Is there a signal between the BCU and ECU that was lost when the battery was disconnected for so long?

 

My helped was exhausted from a long flight this morning but she promised me that she would help tomorrow. I'm gonna have her turn the key tomorrow night while I check for current at the pump, spark, and see if I can feel the main relay and the fuel pump relay kicking in.

 

It is considered bad form to have her hold the spark plug...

 

haha No I have shocked myself a hundred times working on dirt bikes, so I am used to it. I also have enough forsight that a shock like that would mean I would never have help again in the garage ; )

 

Since your alarm LED never lights up, does your central door locking work? Since you don't have a key with a fob, if you lock the driver's door (shut) with the key, while another door is opened, what happens?

 

With a volt meter, you should be able to confirm operation of the main relay by reading between chassis ground and either side of fuse 1 , or fuse 2 of the underhood box. The main relay contact switches battery volts to these fuses (and other relays including fuel pump) when it energizes. Of course, when fuel pump relay energizes, it sends battery volts to fuel pump.

 

So I tried locking the doorswith all the windows up and the hood closed. LED alarm flashes really fast for about ten seconds and then flashes very slow like once every 2 or 3 seconds. I have never seen it one so that was welcome. I tried holding a passenger door open and keeping the driver door closed and locking the door and it locks, but the alarm led does not come on.

 

So the alarm LED works as it should, which helps rule out alarm issues ( I/we don't think the engine is immobilised becasue that would cause it not to even try to start / turn over). Locking the door with the key when all other doors and hood are shut arms the alarm, and the LED should blink exactly as yours did. If a door is open when you arm the alarm, the horn should sound once (to let you know something is open), the doors will lock, and as soon as you shut the open door, the alarm LED will flash as before.

I was asking about the central door locking and alarm last night while I was considering a possible BCU problem.

I am looking forward to hearing results from the tests on the main relay, fuel pump voltage, and spark confirmation at plug.

 

Yep on not immobilized, as it is the BCU that switches ground to operate the starter relay.