Hello all,

What is the best method to isolate(hold) the harmonic balancer still while loosening the center bolt. My first thought was a Come-A-Long cable tightend around it.
I am removing the harmonic balancer to replace crankshaft (front cover) seal. I've had a steady drip for awhile. Next will be to replace the oil pan gasket. Then no more oil leaks...hopfully

 

I have been trying to read to find out everything about changing front crankshaft seal. Supposed to be set at 400 ft. lb.s for my vehicle for the front crankshaft pulley bolt, not too sure how stringent this is because I am considering a hammer and socket wrench.

In regards, to the video (below) they did not remove anything but the electric fan clutch.

I found extensive directions for a 1999, but it seems as in the video it can be done without these directions for 2002 and up.

Lastly, changing oil pan seal in 2 weeks and have the timing cover but it seems like a lot of work to drain cooland and buy new coolant when I recently changed it -- and there is no problem with timing cover. Figured I would hit two birds with one stone, in this case will have to wait for the problem.

Let me know what directions you have read that say you need to hold a harmonic balancer and where this is located. Thanks.

I have a 4.0 V8 2002 Land Rover.


The below video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A6NmItxWPaU&feature=related

 

I apologize you must have meant harmonic balancer pulley.

I read your other thread -- I just want to note that it is recommended you use dealership parts because I have read for 2 months now and have ran into where people used brit parts or other and had leaks over time very soon and was explained by others that oem is made in a certain way that is better. You could be fine, but this is just a heads up.

The best way to remove harmonic balancer pulley would be a pneumatic gun from what I read, and on RAVE it has factory torque specifications, mine would be 400 torque pounds. Although, i would need a torque wrench soon to be able to set this in the future. I don't own a pneumatic gun so I am going to try a hammer and socket wrench and possibly something -- screwdriver stuck in the pulley -- although 50% of people frown on this. If that fails I am too cautious to want to use the starter to remove.

 

dustinvonholten,

Yeah I was wondering about your first post. I did just remove the harmonic balancer on my mom's Acura Ledgend to change the timing belt(last week). Honda is smart and has a special tool that inserts inside the pulley wheel. Like a reverse socket and gives your resistance from the wheel turning with a 1\2" 1" extension to hold it from turning. Then your socket goes on the bolt
I still think the Come-A-Long cable wrapped around it with the handle braced on the floor would work.

I have a 350lbs impact wrench but not enough CFM on my Power Pal air compressor to blast it loose. I will proabably go to my favorite muffler shop and have them blast loose the harmonic balancer bolt. At least it would break the rust seal and I could get it loose with a breaker bar.

 

Here is what I have heard other people on this forum do: Take a spare belt (which you might have laying around from you bought a new one only to find out it was a pulley making noise and not the belt), make a loop with the belt and run the excess through a large diameter metal tube a few feet long. Put the loop around the crankshaft pulley, slide the tube up to the loop as tight against the pulley as you can, and secure the belt in the tube with channel locks at the opposite end. Then, when you begin to loosen the crank bolt, the tube will hit the frame, or the ground, preventing the pulley from turning while you remove the bolt. I think this is the method I am going to try when I replace mine in the spring.

 

Here is how you do it boys, remove the 3 bolted round cover on the bottom of the transmission to gain access to the torque converter/flywheel area, you will notice on the flywheel suare metal tabs on it, now take a big prybar and wedge in between the opening and the square tab, you will need an assistant with a long breaker bar and socket to remove the bolt on the balancer. I would use blue locktite on the threads when going back together with same method of holding the flywheel, with long breaker bar/ socket. I have done this too many time to count. This is the way its done at the dealer. Now if you are going to reseal the oil pan, take the pan down and place a small piece of 2x4 up between the block and the crank, and remove the bolt on the balancer that way, and you can do this by yourself, no assist needed.

 

Sideburns,
That sounds like the ticket. I have a spare flywheel laying here in my spare parts collection and I see that that would work well. I also got the 3 pack Craftsman prybar set from Sears for Chrismas for $19.99. Now if my 1/2" Breaker bar and pipe can take the 450lbs torqured bolt loose.

 

Two vice grips, a board, 15/16ths socket, big breaker bar, propane torch and lots of muscle