I’m trying to replace the timing chain assembly. Sump and front cover are off. Crank and cam bolts are loosened (used wood block method - all I know). I was told to remove the spark plugs to make it easy to turn the engine by hand to set it to TDC, but it will not move… It’ll move if I put the crank bolt back on and turn a wrench on it, but I don’t know how I’d get to TDC and remove the bolts without moving the engine without a powerful enough impact wrench, which I don’t have. If I use the wood block, I have to move it away from TDC. I don’t really understand the flywheel method - not sure how to lock it. The sump is off, not sure if that makes it easier or not. I thought I’d be able to turn the engine easy without the spark plugs, so that after the new chain is on, I could check that it turns smoothly, but I’m not sure I’ll be able to tell if it’s right when using a wrench on the crank bolt to turn it.

I managed to pull all the ignition wire with the ring nose pliers - some got pierced a bit, but the rubber closed back up - will they be alright or do I need new cable?

I pulled all the spark plugs, but I broke one. They’re Bosch Double Platinum plugs that were put in with some kind of inexpensive grey ignition wire about 4-6 years ago. I’m not really sure how many miles it’s been, but I guess I could replace them. I think it would be worth it so I don’t have to do that again for a while. I bought a replacement Bosch plug just in case, though.

The engine had a misfire before all this happened that wouldn’t go away and I didn’t try different plugs, wires, new coil packs, etc. Should I just get new spark plugs? Which should I get? I’ve heard they’re supposed to be double platinum and that NGK are good. I’d like to get them ASAP if needed so it doesn’t force another wait with all of this.

I plugged the spark plug holes with blue shop towels but didn’t pack them in that tightly - they’re secure though. Before I removed the plugs, I used the wood block to loosen the crank and cam bolts, so I’m no longer at TDC. I couldn’t turn the engine by hand after removing them plugs. Is it supposed to turn easily? It was turning fine with the wrench when I loosened the bolt, but should I remove the shop towels from the plug holes and try? I hope nothing is seizing… I’m just wondering how I’m going to tell if the engine is turning properly with the new timing chain and gears if I can’t turn the engine without the same amount of force (or a lot of force) that it took using the wrench on the crank bolt. Should I spray anything into the engine from underneath to lubricate it? Should I drip anything down the spark plug holes to lubricate from the top? A while ago I was told to use marvel mystery oil down the spark plug holes when starting an engine that hasn’t run in a long time (this one has been sitting for about 8 months and hasn’t had oil for about 3 months).

I think I need to learn another trick for loosening the crank and cam bolts - another way to hold the engine exactly where I need it at TDC, so I can loosen the bolts there without moving anything. I’ll try to figure out the flywheel method, but I have the sump removed, so I’m not sure if that’s possible now.

Thank you

 

When we say turn the engine by hand it means not with the starter motor. It doesn’t mean use use your hands on the pulley, you need a wrench on the crank bolt.

Yes, you should definitely replace your spark plugs with new ones, and the spark plug wires. They are your most likely cause of misfire. The coil end of the wires are a bit difficult to get at. I would remove the upper intake to access them, but some have had success without removing it.

You should take the shop towels out of the spark plug holes before you turn the engine, as the vacuum caused by the pistons going down will suck the towel inside your cylinder.

 

Thanks, I’ll do all of that. Hopefully I’ll be able to remove the plugs from the coil packs without removing the plenum, just using longer pliers. I have ring nose pliers now, but might need other types like I saw in an AB video. Will the wires be fused onto the coils like they were on the plugs or will they pull off easily? I guess that a coil pack replacement isn’t in order yet, just plugs and wires.

I read a ton about plugs, but it’s all over the place. Which should I use? There was a misfire before that would keep returning on the code reader. Do the plugs have to be double platinum? I have Bosch double platinum now, so if they’re good, I don’t mind getting more since they’re easy to get, but heard about NGK being good and some using copper plugs that need to be replaced more but can get rid of misfires. Too confused which to get and if I need to do the gapping based on the plug or the engine and what that specification is - I always see “pre gapped” and “do not gap” which I’d prefer if that’s what it should be, but then I’ve read people say, “always check.” Please advise me in this.

About the wires, I have some inexpensive grey wire on there now. I can see some sets are much more expensive. I’d really appreciate suggestions of what to get. Hopefully I don’t pierce the new ones when installing - it’s hard working around the air intake on either side, especially toward the firewall end, cylinders 7 and 8. I’ll try using dielectric grease in the boots and installing them by hand as much as I can.

 

The first time I replaced plugs and wires on my truck back in November '09 I did it without removing the upper intake. I put an old, closed-cell foam sleeping pad on top of the engine and laid face-down to access the coil packs. I don't recall now why I went so far as to remove the coil packs and reinstall them, all with the upper intake in place. It was tricky and tedious but I got it done. But, in the course of doing all that I broke both the brake servo vac line and the plastic fitting where the PCV hose attaches to the plenum. Be sure to disconnect them before lying on top of the engine. To disconnect the vac line, push IN on the red collar, then pull the vac line OUT.

The second time I replaced the wires, in December '17, I removed the plenum. It wasn't that difficult to do, and given how much your truck is already taken apart I'd go ahead and remove it if I were you. A replacement gasket is not expensive and the job is a lot easier with the plenum off.

The coil-end boots will likely be stuck to the coil packs, but given their location you can easily pry them off with a long screwdriver.

The plugs specified by Land Rover are double-platinum Champion 7070s (RC11 PYP B4).

Before I started taking care of my truck myself, a local indy shop had installed copper plugs. They lasted only ~13,000 miles before the misfires appeared. The first set of 7070s I installed were still going strong when I replaced them proactively after 59,000 miles. The Bosch double-platinums are probably fine. Just be aware that when it comes to spark plugs there are a lot of cults out there and a lot of snake oil being sold.

The DII uses what's called a wasted-spark system, which is why double-platinum spark plugs are specified. For more information, just search online for "wasted spark". As for the gap measurement, modern spark plugs have the gap set at the factory (0.040 in. for the DII). I double check the gap before installing new plugs, but I have yet to need to adjust the gap (granted that's on only two sets - 16 plugs total).

The go-to, name brand ignition wires for years on this forum have been STI, Magnecor and Kingbourne. The shop that put the copper plugs in my truck back in '07 did a good thing when they installed STI wires at the same time. Those wires were still going strong 72,000 miles later when I replaced them proactively only because I found a set at Rockauto for just $11.00. I probably wouldn't buy anything but STI. That doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the other premium brands; I just know what's worked for me.

I have a set of barely used Magnecor wires that a friend who had an '04 DII installed and then removed several years ago in a misguided path to clearing a misfire problem. He gave them to me when he sold his truck. I'd be happy to send them to you for the cost of shipping. As for dielectric grease, apply it sparingly on the inside of the boots only, not on the electrical mating surfaces.

 

Thanks for all this excellent info - I'd really appreciate those wires if you're not planning to use them. I think I'll probably replace the wires after bringing the vehicle back down from the jacks. I'll probably just remove the plenum to get back there since it's tough enough. Some of my wires' boots got pierced a bit with the ring nose pliers since it's difficult to get at certain ones like cylinders and 7 and 8. You can't see the piercings in the boots since the rubber bounced back, but I think they were the cheapest wires available - probably not a good choice. Mine were tough to remove - mostly fused on there and really tough to get around the air intakes on either side, especially toward the back - do most people remove the air intakes when doing this? Hopefully some grease will make it easier to remove the plugs if the vehicle runs another 60,000

Is there anything to know about using heavier wire? I'm not sure if I need a specific gauge.

It sounds like those Champion plugs are the way to go. I'll try to find them around here. I hope I didn't screw anything up with the plug that didn't remove smoothly - it seemed like it was getting loose, then there was resistance, then loose and it went back and forth a few times until it came out. I'm not sure if I loosened it at a bit of an angle somehow or if it was installed like that. Do you think that will be alright?

Cheers