Removing and Reconditioning Fuel Injectors with new O Rings
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 1,235
Likes: 509
From: CA
I got original Bosch O-rings from FCPEuro. Also you need new retainer caps. Getting them in and out was very easy. There are videos on yt how to clean (externally and internally) and test (spray pattern, amount) them in a DIY fashion without buying a special tester. I did that when having the engine out as part of my partial engine overhaul. They were in very good condition after 111k miles. As others pointed out, if you don't have trouble codes or a fuel leak there is no need to to all this. If you rebuild an engine I would do all the steps.
DIY reconditioning, swapping the O-Rings, and making your own little rig to test them is not worth the trouble considering a fresh rebuilt set on Ebay costs $120.00. They also will give you 25$ credit for your old ones if you ship them back.
if you’re going to swap em, it’s a safe bet to swap them in full with tested refurbed ones, dont mess with refurbing your old ones, and save yourself the time and money learning how to refurb fuel injectors.
if you want to save your fuel injectors to refurb them on your own keep them and if you get to em, you get to em ya know?
Scope creep while everything apart is common. Don’t let it pause the big picture project. I did the same thing with the injectors as you, thought about refurb on my own, and I assure you replacing them with tested refurbed was the way to go.
As well, just heads up, the fuel rail is fragile. It does rust, and it requires some forceful purpose finesse to remove the rail and the injectors whilst all are connected to the rail. I do not recommend it after doing it the way I did. If you do it that way be gentle but don’t use your baby hands but also dont grip it and rip it like you're gettin off. There are 4 small bolts that hold the rail on. Wiggle the injectors and try to displace them gently. They will break free with some back and forth.
Don’t remove the rail and injectors until you have made a decision and have the refurbed injectors in hand. There’s no going back if you remove. Once you remove them you have to make a decision.
Whilst the manifold and after youve removed the rail and injectors off give it a cleaning. Despite what anyone tells you hot tanking aluminum components regardless of what anyone says is not ideal as the solution is usually basic. I used rounds of Dawn in hot water, a pressure washer, and aluminum mildly acidic cleaner meant for trailers. Go light on the aluminum cleaner or else it will self etch and get white.
When you reinstall. Use petroleum jelly on the o-rings on the fuel rail side and the manifold side. They will slide right in. Ensure the clips that secure the injectors to the fuel rail have “clicked” and you see the rim of the injector poking through the slotted sides of the clip. That way you will know they are installed appropriately and secured down.
Oh, if you are doing the valley pan gasket, it is easiest to remove the fuel rail before removing the lower manifold. It’s possible but it’s annoying as the rail crosses the back bolts of the manifold. I did not do that on the disassembly but if I were to do it again I would remove it by taking my time wigglying the rail and injectors free.
Same goes for reassembly. If doing the valley pan gasket go slow and make sure everything is lined up, and note the order of operations. Reassembly is valley pan gasket install, initial tightening of the valley pan gasket clamps, manifold intake install with initial torque sequence, manifold intake final torque sequence, valley pan gasket clamps final torque sequence, and then preassembled injectors and fuel rail install.
The back clamp of the valley pan gasket bolt is obstructed by the fuel rail inlet connection. Ask me how I know…ask any of us how we know that… head gasket job…. You’ll see.
To support you and provide a little guidance. I echo what the gang is saying in terms of fuel injectors. Scope creep during the HG is real, however, dont spend too much time and effort on the fuel injectors. Save your effort and time focusing on getting the Valley Pan Gasket installed correctly.
Meaning, make the decision, either buy refurbed set at 120$, risk damaging the fuel rail during disassembly ($50 bucks on ebay, not a big deal), or don’t touch them at all. Don’t over think the injectors.
Focus on the valley pan gasket install if you are doing the head gaskets. You dont want to redo that gasket.
If you wanna clean something for the hell of it. Disassemble and clean the lifters. There a youtube video from Britannica Resto on youtube, warch that before you do. Hell of a lot easier to do that then refurb your own injectors.
if you’re going to swap em, it’s a safe bet to swap them in full with tested refurbed ones, dont mess with refurbing your old ones, and save yourself the time and money learning how to refurb fuel injectors.
if you want to save your fuel injectors to refurb them on your own keep them and if you get to em, you get to em ya know?
Scope creep while everything apart is common. Don’t let it pause the big picture project. I did the same thing with the injectors as you, thought about refurb on my own, and I assure you replacing them with tested refurbed was the way to go.
As well, just heads up, the fuel rail is fragile. It does rust, and it requires some forceful purpose finesse to remove the rail and the injectors whilst all are connected to the rail. I do not recommend it after doing it the way I did. If you do it that way be gentle but don’t use your baby hands but also dont grip it and rip it like you're gettin off. There are 4 small bolts that hold the rail on. Wiggle the injectors and try to displace them gently. They will break free with some back and forth.
Don’t remove the rail and injectors until you have made a decision and have the refurbed injectors in hand. There’s no going back if you remove. Once you remove them you have to make a decision.
Whilst the manifold and after youve removed the rail and injectors off give it a cleaning. Despite what anyone tells you hot tanking aluminum components regardless of what anyone says is not ideal as the solution is usually basic. I used rounds of Dawn in hot water, a pressure washer, and aluminum mildly acidic cleaner meant for trailers. Go light on the aluminum cleaner or else it will self etch and get white.
When you reinstall. Use petroleum jelly on the o-rings on the fuel rail side and the manifold side. They will slide right in. Ensure the clips that secure the injectors to the fuel rail have “clicked” and you see the rim of the injector poking through the slotted sides of the clip. That way you will know they are installed appropriately and secured down.
Oh, if you are doing the valley pan gasket, it is easiest to remove the fuel rail before removing the lower manifold. It’s possible but it’s annoying as the rail crosses the back bolts of the manifold. I did not do that on the disassembly but if I were to do it again I would remove it by taking my time wigglying the rail and injectors free.
Same goes for reassembly. If doing the valley pan gasket go slow and make sure everything is lined up, and note the order of operations. Reassembly is valley pan gasket install, initial tightening of the valley pan gasket clamps, manifold intake install with initial torque sequence, manifold intake final torque sequence, valley pan gasket clamps final torque sequence, and then preassembled injectors and fuel rail install.
The back clamp of the valley pan gasket bolt is obstructed by the fuel rail inlet connection. Ask me how I know…ask any of us how we know that… head gasket job…. You’ll see.
To support you and provide a little guidance. I echo what the gang is saying in terms of fuel injectors. Scope creep during the HG is real, however, dont spend too much time and effort on the fuel injectors. Save your effort and time focusing on getting the Valley Pan Gasket installed correctly.
Meaning, make the decision, either buy refurbed set at 120$, risk damaging the fuel rail during disassembly ($50 bucks on ebay, not a big deal), or don’t touch them at all. Don’t over think the injectors.
Focus on the valley pan gasket install if you are doing the head gaskets. You dont want to redo that gasket.
If you wanna clean something for the hell of it. Disassemble and clean the lifters. There a youtube video from Britannica Resto on youtube, warch that before you do. Hell of a lot easier to do that then refurb your own injectors.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,197
Likes: 182
From: MEMPHIS, TN
If you are pulling the injectors sending them out for service is an option. I used Mr. Injector (mrinjector.us). They clean and rebuild them and send back a report. They send new o-rings. There are other servicers mentioned in threads. I had tried everything in hunting down a P0171/P0174 and it ended up being bad injector seals. Recently this summer I had a misfire code. It ended up being a bad ignition wire. I changed out the plugs/wires and cleared up the issue. It would only trigger upon hitting a large bump/off road. Good luck on tracking it down
I used mr injector as well. Very prompt and complete service.
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