Yes, except you're telling this to someone who has done it before in their V8 Discovery and knows it can be done. Keep a wake, and keep traction, and you're not going to have an issue, despite how obvious it is that you should avoid doing it.

 

I never said it couldn't be done, only that I wouldn't suggest it and won't myself. I said if water is at that hose(which would mean it's up to that INSIDE the engine bay), you're in trouble. If you have kept a wake and momentum there's little chance that the water level is that high inside the engine compartment.

 

I know I dredged this up from the bowls of the forum but can anyone confirm the usage of a trimmed down oil bottle as a close fit for the air box to fender flex hose? The idea is by far the best I've seen but I didn't see any follow up or pics to prove the concept.

My disintegrated while I was installing my snorkel and tape, regardless of stickiness, isn't a permanent enough fix for me. Not when water entry is the main issue

 

I used flex seal on mine in the rattle can. Created an internal frame with paper plates and sprayed a few coates. After that, I took the paper plates out and actually got the flex seal in the pint can't and painted the crap out of it. It's waterproof as hell now. If you don't want to do that, use some cordura nylon or carhart style material the wrap it and do the same thing. I taped the ends on mine off and submerged it in water overnight and not a drop came through

 

I had actually considered the flex seal approach! But I'm impatient and decided to try the oil bottle, with good results. Will post pics of finished product after its painted.

 

Still running it to this day. Had planned on doing something different, but it works to well, soo....

 

Good follow up. Thought I would add to this topic. I used exterior window flashing tape from Lowes. It is almost as wide as the length of the hose. Overlap the seam. Cheap, super sticky on one side and flexible!

 

Neat idea. I replaced my whole intake when this became an issue for me, but had I left the factory setup I always thought that a silicon turbo coupling of the appropriate size would be the perfect replacement. You'd just have to measure the circumference and calculate what diameter coupler you would need. Should be like a $10 fix.

 

This would have been my preferred method, had I not been impatient to the extreme. Plus the bottle was free.

 

​​​​​​Good to see that it worked! I believe it's a viable solution. The section of the bottle is even short enough that it really doesn't need any structure added, it physically can't collapse unless it comes apart from the air box or fender piece. I'm going to test it by partially blocking the snorkel opening to see if the engine can actually put enough vacuum on it to even narrow the opening.