Replacing Battery Terminals
#11
Do you see the hole in the top of the POS terminal? It's threaded (M6 I think). Buy an appropriately-sized bolt and washer and attach the wire for your new circuit there. No cutting. No expensive crimper needed. That's how the cable for my winch is attached. Remember the KISS principle.
Now for my hack. I too had loose battery terminals. For years I used my Vise Grips to deform them, that is, make them slightly not round. Worked pretty well. But a few months ago when I installed the current battery I tried something else. I drilled a small hole in between the terminal and the battery post and then installed a small screw as a shim. Did it on both the POS and the NEG. The terminals don't vibrate loose any more. Yes it's a hack, but far short of cutting off the factory terminal.
Last edited by mln01; 06-07-2016 at 05:30 AM.
#12
#13
Yeah, you're right, it is a hack. By hack I meant any sort of stop-gap measure. If there's a bum part, it should be replaced for longevity. I hate repairing things twice, or worrying about taking off the terminals and finding I can't tighten them back on later.
I also like the idea of mil-spec so I can angle the cables better. The battery dimensions have to be pretty precise (not only dimensions, but also -/+ posts location) for the factory terminals. I bought an optima and had to return it because of the location of the posts. Then I exchanged it for a regular battery, but 7.5" is too wide (my fault, should have measured... it fits, but the mount won't fit over it).
Attached drawing of proper battery dimensions
I'm going to go for it. Will report back
I also like the idea of mil-spec so I can angle the cables better. The battery dimensions have to be pretty precise (not only dimensions, but also -/+ posts location) for the factory terminals. I bought an optima and had to return it because of the location of the posts. Then I exchanged it for a regular battery, but 7.5" is too wide (my fault, should have measured... it fits, but the mount won't fit over it).
Attached drawing of proper battery dimensions
I'm going to go for it. Will report back
Last edited by Jeff Blake; 06-07-2016 at 11:46 AM.
#14
Exactly what I did. I had a flashing alternator light that I chased around for weeks, and could not figure out what it was. One of the forum members suggested checking my ground connections. I never could get the terminals to quite tighten all the way down. Shimmed the posts and tightened it up. No alternator light, no problems.
I don't see battery shims as a hack.
#16
I bit the bullet on the hydraulic crimper. Makes a world of difference. Even though I'm only going to be using them a few times... very much worth the $50. Welding cable is also amazing. Waiting on the larger lugs (ancor marine tinned copper) to do the install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the 4 gauge cable is for my fuse panel install.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the 4 gauge cable is for my fuse panel install.
The following users liked this post:
JUKE179r (11-11-2016)
#17
job done. ended up making a new earth cable out of 2/0 gauge welding cable. Man, the bolt for the cable on the starter/block was really on there. Took 4+ hours of PB plaster, heat gun, vice grips, dremel, and sockets to get it off. Happy with the result. Now on to finishing my fuse panel and coolant hose changeover.
some final tips:
some final tips:
- use a wire brush to scrape off any green residue on the cables after stripping. I had quite a bit on both positive cables
- remember to check the position of the lug before crimping. You don't want to have to twist the cables to get it onto the terminal
- hydraulic 10 ton crimper and welding cable is great stuff
- 1/0 lugs for both positive cables
Last edited by Jeff Blake; 06-13-2016 at 12:39 AM.
The following users liked this post:
JUKE179r (11-11-2016)
#20
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PuroKaibil
General Range Rover Discussion - Archived
0
01-16-2009 07:59 PM