Replacing Head Gaskets- What Else and What components?
#1
Replacing Head Gaskets- What Else and What components?
I got my heads off this weekend for the HG repair I need to complete. My questions are below but first a few details:
Details
2000 Disco II, 120k Miles (i'm 3rd owner)
Purchased w/ known blown HG (just leaking coolant outside, no other leaks, no mixing or fluid/oil into piston)
I plan on owning it a while
Limited/no oil sludge buildup in visible areas
I will do timing chain
I will add oil pressure gauge
I will check the tappets. If worn I'll replace cam and tappets
Questions:
1) Heads are going in to be decked. Do you recommend other valve work? (seats, guides, etc?)
2) What plugs/wires do you recommend?
3) What HG is best? Currently looking to use the Atlantic British HG Kit. Alternatives or recommendations?
4) ARP Studs or no?
5) Should I do the oil pump?
6) Can I use new pushrods with old tappets and rockers? I hit two pushrods w/ a wrench so need to replace them.
Thanks!
Details
2000 Disco II, 120k Miles (i'm 3rd owner)
Purchased w/ known blown HG (just leaking coolant outside, no other leaks, no mixing or fluid/oil into piston)
I plan on owning it a while
Limited/no oil sludge buildup in visible areas
I will do timing chain
I will add oil pressure gauge
I will check the tappets. If worn I'll replace cam and tappets
Questions:
1) Heads are going in to be decked. Do you recommend other valve work? (seats, guides, etc?)
2) What plugs/wires do you recommend?
3) What HG is best? Currently looking to use the Atlantic British HG Kit. Alternatives or recommendations?
4) ARP Studs or no?
5) Should I do the oil pump?
6) Can I use new pushrods with old tappets and rockers? I hit two pushrods w/ a wrench so need to replace them.
Thanks!
#2
1. Shop will do valve seals, they come in a box with the kit. About $250 total near me. Usually guides are not needed to be replaced.
2. Cheap champions and 8mm silicone wires
3. Victor Reinz kit is about $125 from AutohausAZ. Seems like there is another kit for about $90. Has HG and other gaskets. Use the old valley pan gasket to line up heads before torque down or you'll waste a lot of time and money and really make it FUBAR like I did.
4. No if you follow directions perfectly. Yes if you might make a boo boo and need to take something off.
5. If doing timing chain do the oil pump gears.
6. Good question. I'll let others jump in.
2. Cheap champions and 8mm silicone wires
3. Victor Reinz kit is about $125 from AutohausAZ. Seems like there is another kit for about $90. Has HG and other gaskets. Use the old valley pan gasket to line up heads before torque down or you'll waste a lot of time and money and really make it FUBAR like I did.
4. No if you follow directions perfectly. Yes if you might make a boo boo and need to take something off.
5. If doing timing chain do the oil pump gears.
6. Good question. I'll let others jump in.
#3
I agree with Buzz but for two things:
I have read horror stories about the stretch bolts stripping threads, and many people think they are one reason both head gaskets and blocks fail. No question - I would go ARP. But you do need an accurate torque wrench or the ARPs will have serious problems also.
Yes, new oil pump and timing set. I also would probly replace the water pump just cause I'm in there and overheating these trucks is bad.
Personally, I'd get a new cam and lifters and do that while I had it apart. The flat tappet cams in these trucks seem to wear down significantly by 100k miles. This thread has a nice layout of the costs.
I have read horror stories about the stretch bolts stripping threads, and many people think they are one reason both head gaskets and blocks fail. No question - I would go ARP. But you do need an accurate torque wrench or the ARPs will have serious problems also.
Yes, new oil pump and timing set. I also would probly replace the water pump just cause I'm in there and overheating these trucks is bad.
Personally, I'd get a new cam and lifters and do that while I had it apart. The flat tappet cams in these trucks seem to wear down significantly by 100k miles. This thread has a nice layout of the costs.
#4
Well said - but you'll have extra work to do to take out the cam (radiator and AC condenser and those extra coolers in-between). Make sure every bolt fits back finger tight, use a gun cleaning brush to clean out threads, if chasing with a tap be extra careful. Head bolts are not the only things that can strip out. I hold the world record on intake manifold bolts.
Read several of the DIY posts on it so you can avoid problems of others.
Read several of the DIY posts on it so you can avoid problems of others.
#5
Wow, all great info. I have a craftsman clicker style torque wrench. I'll take it in to work and have it calibrated before the job starts.
Water pump is 1500 miles old. It was replaced as the original culprit (leaking shaft seal on it).
I'll start reviewing the cam info. I do have an idle tick after warm up. I checked for slipped sleeve but all was good on the block.
thanks guys for all the great info! very appreciated!
Water pump is 1500 miles old. It was replaced as the original culprit (leaking shaft seal on it).
I'll start reviewing the cam info. I do have an idle tick after warm up. I checked for slipped sleeve but all was good on the block.
thanks guys for all the great info! very appreciated!
#6
Use Victor Reinz HG's.
I had 96,000 when I replaced my head gaskets and I did not replace all the other stuff - cam, oil pump.
I did not even deck the heads.
I just cleaned them up and flipped them back on.
Still going at 106,000 miles now (about 6,000 miles driven a year).
So, I only have 10,000 miles more on the Rover.
I used stretch bolts.
As long as the holes are clean - no antifreeze and
the bolts have lube on them and grease under the head of the bolt to prevent galling when tightening - you will be OK.
I did this all in the parking lot.
I did not have the radiator out at all.
Have never done a timing chain or taken the front cover off the oil pump.
Not sure I wanted to.
OK, so my theory is this..
IF you buy all that stuff for the oil pump and the cam and all that.
And you put on new Head gaskets and it goes wrong - you
screw it up or the block is bad and it leaks anyway, then
all the money thrown at it otherwise is a waste.
I am on to.
fix the head.
drive it
Wait until 160,000 or more and then replace the other bits.
You may need a new HG then too.
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
I had 96,000 when I replaced my head gaskets and I did not replace all the other stuff - cam, oil pump.
I did not even deck the heads.
I just cleaned them up and flipped them back on.
Still going at 106,000 miles now (about 6,000 miles driven a year).
So, I only have 10,000 miles more on the Rover.
I used stretch bolts.
As long as the holes are clean - no antifreeze and
the bolts have lube on them and grease under the head of the bolt to prevent galling when tightening - you will be OK.
I did this all in the parking lot.
I did not have the radiator out at all.
Have never done a timing chain or taken the front cover off the oil pump.
Not sure I wanted to.
OK, so my theory is this..
IF you buy all that stuff for the oil pump and the cam and all that.
And you put on new Head gaskets and it goes wrong - you
screw it up or the block is bad and it leaks anyway, then
all the money thrown at it otherwise is a waste.
I am on to.
fix the head.
drive it
Wait until 160,000 or more and then replace the other bits.
You may need a new HG then too.
Flickr: Landroverdude2's Photostream
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