Got abs mod out and replaced the shuttle valve on bottom, I was trying to compare the Ohms difference on pins 6 and 9. Forgive me I'm not really versed in the meter electric stuff but my question is will the ohm meter be a constant number or will it jump around, and what should be?

 

Constant, however you need to be using clips on the pins, if you do it by hand it will move as your hands move. If you look at my recent posts I have one of these units apart, and the SLABS computer is only checking for "opens." I could fire the light by breaking the connection, or vice verse turn it off.

Before you just replace the shuttle vales check connectivity between the pins on main half and the pins on the connector. Wiggle them around, I bet you have a break on the crummy circuit board if you still get the code.

 

Scott R,

thanks for response but keep in mind I'm an idiot when it comes to ohms wires and circut boards. I read your post and the Hummer post about pulling the unit apart and fixing the circut board, this is where I get stupid! Ok so you cut the back of the plug (the back of the plastic) and you straight wired the circuts together? is that correct or am I not following. I appreciate the help but forgive me because I did'n t take one electronics class in school. Just beer bong 101 lol........

 

I cut the back of the black plastic with an x-acto blade (very carefully) At this point the pins for the plug fell out onto my bench. They use a pin, that narrows to a spike that's terribly weak.

I used 14 gauge wire soldered it through/to the circuit board, and ran the wire though the passage up to the shuttles. After that I shrink wrapped the entire black plastic piece. I then soldered the wires and shrink taped them to the shuttle valve wires and tested it through the SLABS computer.

Codes have been clear since, and I've had a lot of ABS and traction control events this week living in Denver. I wanted to do a better write up, but by the time I had the unit back in and bled I realized I had forgot to take pictures.

 

Ok thanks, I just wanted to be sure while I have the thing out, don't want to pull it out agian. Your pics were pretty clear so I will give it a go, thanks for the input. I bet skiing will unreal out there this year!

 

Update: While I had abs mod out I went ahead and re-soldered the switch plug from the Hummer write up and help from Scott R. I going to put it back in tomorrow and see if did the trick.

Checked the ohm meter with the new shuttle valve and the shuttle valve and getting the same reading so I'm thinking the plug was the problem from the gitgo.

 

Is there anyone rebuilding these on the side?

I'd be game for farming this out to someone who knows better than I on how to do it.

I've intermittent 3 amigos. Haven't checked the codes yet but, by process of elimination, my hunch is shuttle valve problems.

 

Update: re-installed the abs modulator with new shuttle valve and plug surgery and bled the brakes, which I need to do again, but so far no lights. The HD is working along with the abs, will check TC later.

 

I couldn't find one. I can get the individual parts from Worldpac, but they don't sell to everyone. There is a lot of liability in rebuilding parts like this, but the good news is as far as the shuttle valve issue, it's a DYI, and easy enough.

 

[QUOTE=Scott R;146400]I couldn't find one. I can get the individual parts from Worldpac, but they don't sell to everyone. There is a lot of liability in rebuilding parts like this, but the good news is as far as the shuttle valve issue, it's a DYI, and easy enough.[/QUOT

Well knock on wood everything still good to go, no amigos and everything is working as it should.

I found this place that rebuilds them but have never had any dealings with;

www.modulemaster.com