Replacing Tie Rod End
#1
Replacing Tie Rod End
I need to replace one of the tie rod ends on my D2 (the one on the passenger wheel that is connected to the steering box). It has a little bit of play when you move it up and down. My question is: do I need to get an alignment after I change it? My alignment is pretty much perfect now. I intend on making sure that the length of the tie rod does not change after fixing it. Thanks in advance.
#4
The easiest way to get them off when they're stuck is heat. Before I had a proper torch, I had reasonable success with a MAP gas torch. It takes longer to heat it up, but be patient and keep checking if it will move. They're normally not as stuck as they seem. It's rare to have rust on the threads all the way into the tie rod end.
Good luck with it. You'll get it.
Good luck with it. You'll get it.
#5
Also, as far as alignment goes. If you can get both front tires off the ground. Measure as high up on the front and rear of the tires as you can get a tape measure. I usually use the middle line of tread. It's easier to remember if you mark where you measured from. Don't forget to write down the measurements!
Then when you get it back together, leave the jam nut loose and you can turn the tie rod until your measurements are right. It's easier if you hold the tape measure in place and have a helper turn the tie rod. That way you don't have to climb under the truck over and over.
Then when you get it back together, leave the jam nut loose and you can turn the tie rod until your measurements are right. It's easier if you hold the tape measure in place and have a helper turn the tie rod. That way you don't have to climb under the truck over and over.
#6
The easiest way to get them off when they're stuck is heat. Before I had a proper torch, I had reasonable success with a MAP gas torch. It takes longer to heat it up, but be patient and keep checking if it will move. They're normally not as stuck as they seem. It's rare to have rust on the threads all the way into the tie rod end.
Good luck with it. You'll get it.
Good luck with it. You'll get it.
I probably should have started out with the torch. It only had a little up and down movement. I think the hammer damaged the TRE even more to the point where I don't think it's safe to drive...
#7
Oh man, that sucks! If you have a regular propane torch, or if you can borrow one, that might be enough too. There is a chance someone put grease on the threads. I find that it's pretty common. Normally just the very outer couple threads get any rust on them. If any at all.
That's not to say I haven't seen them with rust all the way down the threads but it's very rare. That usually happens when someone changes it and cleans the threads with brake parts cleaner. I slather them with anti-seize.
That's not to say I haven't seen them with rust all the way down the threads but it's very rare. That usually happens when someone changes it and cleans the threads with brake parts cleaner. I slather them with anti-seize.
Last edited by disc oh no; 06-23-2016 at 08:15 PM.