I need to replace one of the tie rod ends on my D2 (the one on the passenger wheel that is connected to the steering box). It has a little bit of play when you move it up and down. My question is: do I need to get an alignment after I change it? My alignment is pretty much perfect now. I intend on making sure that the length of the tie rod does not change after fixing it. Thanks in advance.

 

If the tie rod end is adjustable I would at least have the alignment checked after installing the new one. No matter how careful you are to get them the same length it will most likely be off. I would do it just for the peace of mind if nothing else. D*

 

Just got the TRE in today and went out to change it. Only problem is that the old one won't come off the knuckle. I believe it's because it is the original. Any suggestions? I tried hammering away at it and used a lot of PB blaster.

 

The easiest way to get them off when they're stuck is heat. Before I had a proper torch, I had reasonable success with a MAP gas torch. It takes longer to heat it up, but be patient and keep checking if it will move. They're normally not as stuck as they seem. It's rare to have rust on the threads all the way into the tie rod end.
Good luck with it. You'll get it.

 

Also, as far as alignment goes. If you can get both front tires off the ground. Measure as high up on the front and rear of the tires as you can get a tape measure. I usually use the middle line of tread. It's easier to remember if you mark where you measured from. Don't forget to write down the measurements!
Then when you get it back together, leave the jam nut loose and you can turn the tie rod until your measurements are right. It's easier if you hold the tape measure in place and have a helper turn the tie rod. That way you don't have to climb under the truck over and over.

 

Then I guess I have to get a torch. I doubt it has any rust as well. The threads look clean.

I probably should have started out with the torch. It only had a little up and down movement. I think the hammer damaged the TRE even more to the point where I don't think it's safe to drive...

 

Oh man, that sucks! If you have a regular propane torch, or if you can borrow one, that might be enough too. There is a chance someone put grease on the threads. I find that it's pretty common. Normally just the very outer couple threads get any rust on them. If any at all.
That's not to say I haven't seen them with rust all the way down the threads but it's very rare. That usually happens when someone changes it and cleans the threads with brake parts cleaner. I slather them with anti-seize.

 

Which end are you trying to replace? The factory tie rod only has one replaceable end.

 

Well, it's actually the drag link end. It's the end that you can change (on the passenger wheel). I've been calling it the wrong thing the whole time...

 

I have always been able to break a taper with a sledge hammer head solid on 1 side and then hitting the other side with another large hammer. There is an instructional video on atlantic british website where he goes off on it with a BFH