I agree with some of these last comments. Grease and wax remover as a prep. And avoid dupli-color interior paint, it's garbage compared to SEM. I transformed almost my whole interior from the D1 sand to the 03/04 black and gray/white.

Ps. Use a white base with lt neutral to match the gray/ white color.

Pss. Ignore my window covers. Texas heat is a B**** with all these windows.

 

Another advise. Get plastic specific paint and go thin multiple coats. Thick coats chip.

 

, I try not to use a lot of paint as possible because the texture will get shallow and wont look natural.
I have a spare newer rear upper trim I got recently from a salvaged 2004 and its flawless. I will try to fix the one I removed with larger tear and holes as an experiment. I just got the materials yesterday but its a bit cloudy today. If the results are good, I'll post.

 

don't forget when painting plastic panels, to use degreaser first then alcohol wipe second, it will remove any interior cleaners or protectants first and help the new pain stay adhered to the plastic better. I used the dupli-color vinyl as well for the base to adhere then I topped off mine with rustoleum, hammered finish.

 

Don't mean to hijack this thread but are the bins worth grabbing at the junkyard? They would cost around $15 for me.

 

depends on the shape and if they came from a rear ac unit or not

 

Has the Xantrex Technologies 1800PS 1800 Watt - 2900 Watt Prosine Power Inverter (806-1800) been everything you planned for? Second thoughts? Easy access to the output panel?

Cheers mate,
G

 

Its been useful. We only use it for computers when we dont have an outlet to edit on location. I dont have the remote panel on this model and its directly wired. I dont have battery charger for shore power. I have a 150amp alternator which is sufficient enough for 1-2 hours run. I never use it without the truck running or it will drain the battery. Its huge and it should be installed near the battery not like this installation. I think to run a 0 gauge wire all the way to the back, if I can remember will cost more than the inverter. This is just a backup.

 

2nd SEM coating vs Duplicolor. It seems costlier, but it has been more durable in my years of experience with both. The hard plastic in the Discovery is ABS. It can be cleaned and degreased with a wax/grease remover or just non-chlorinated brake parts cleaner or Simple Green and rinsed. The key to getting adhesion is to melt the ABS with acetone before you apply the paint, but you need aerosol acetone because you don't want to smear it when it's melted. SEM sells "Sand Free" spray which is aerosol acetone. Their website documents correct procedure best, but basically you spray Sand Free and while it's still wet and the ABS surface is dissolved, you spray the SEM coating. The acetone melts the ABS just like you do when you use ABS or PVC cement to join pipe (it will melt PVC too) and the paint really bonds to it. For the softer plastics like the vinyl dash and door panel inserts etc., you cannot melt it with acetone. Instead, clean it with ammonia and use an Adhesion Promoter product (Duplicolor and SEM both sell one, and it makes sense to use the one you'll know is compatible with your paint). Also, I don't recommend big color changes like tan to black. The best results will be when you match factory colors closely and need only a thin coat to smooth and even out wear, scratches, and restore UV damage. But there's no harm in doing whatever you please. A radical color won't be more sacrilegious than Herculiner, and who cares.