Richard head gasket replacement 04 Disco II
#31
Head & Block Cleaning
This is pretty simple if time consuming
Tools
The process is pretty simple:
Just take you time and stop when you are happy you can not get absolute perfection
Some images of my test run on my old head and not I did not polish to a shine
Tools less scraper
Before far side
After - note the damage around the locating dowl from the previous owner
Swirl marks from Rolec
Exhaust manifold side just Rolec and Scotch brite
Intake side before and just Rolec
Intake all steps except 12000
This is pretty simple if time consuming
Tools
- White 3M rolec disk and adaptor
- Drill cordless or corded
- WD 40
- Scotch bright pad
- Rags
- Ice scraper
- Spray on gasket remover - you may not need this it is like paint stripper for gaskets and toxic
- Windex or cheap equivalent
- Buffing pad for the drill
- Micro mesh 8000 or higher
The process is pretty simple:
- Rags in the piston openings and water jacket
- Start with the plastic scraper get as much gasket material off as you can, it may be none that is ok
- Next the Rolec disk - keep it moving you will see circular swirl marks that is ok, use very light pressure
- Wipe the block down with windex and clean the disk every now and then the windex evaporates fast so you can get back to work
- Back to the scraper, then back to the Rolec this should get the gasket material off
- If you have no luck on step 2 to 4 breakout the evil chemical spray
- Once you have all the gasket material off clean with windex
- Take piece of Scotchbrite and soak it in Wd 40
- LIGHTLY run it long ways over the block - use more WD 40 as required
- Do step 9 just enough to get rid of the swirl marks - 2 or 3 passes should be enough DO NOT press down hard
- Clean with windex then buff with same
- Inspect your work make sure there is no gasket material left
- Finally soak the 12000 grit in Windex
- Take the 12000 grit and make the same 2 or 3 light passes adding windex as you go
Just take you time and stop when you are happy you can not get absolute perfection
Some images of my test run on my old head and not I did not polish to a shine
Tools less scraper
Before far side
After - note the damage around the locating dowl from the previous owner
Swirl marks from Rolec
Exhaust manifold side just Rolec and Scotch brite
Intake side before and just Rolec
Intake all steps except 12000
Last edited by Richard Gallant; 02-07-2020 at 04:58 PM.
The following 4 users liked this post by Richard Gallant:
#32
Will have a seperate post on head clean up found some interesting information.
But on to the lower intake, the insides were filthy: another good reason for the PCV mod, that is largely from the oil added to the intake from over pressure in the crankcase,and worn valve seals.
before
Very liberal application of carb cleaner - as in lots and a soft brush got that sorted out
Next was clean up of the mating surfaces the before image:
After image note how much cleaner the intake tubes are
Note the circular milling marks
Mating surface cleaning was accomplished by doing the following - (tested on a dead head)
I have more on this in my new head cleaning thread
But on to the lower intake, the insides were filthy: another good reason for the PCV mod, that is largely from the oil added to the intake from over pressure in the crankcase,and worn valve seals.
before
Very liberal application of carb cleaner - as in lots and a soft brush got that sorted out
Next was clean up of the mating surfaces the before image:
After image note how much cleaner the intake tubes are
Note the circular milling marks
Mating surface cleaning was accomplished by doing the following - (tested on a dead head)
- Spray liberally with windex
- Use a long plastic or wood sanding block and 320 grit WET/DRY sand paper
- Do about 5 or 6 passes - a pass is full length each way Light pressure
- Clean after every second path and re wet
- After that do 2 passes with 600 grit Wet /Dry using the same procedure
- Pay particular attention to the 2 water ports on the far right of the image and get rid of any RTV
- DO NOT SAND OUT THE RTV USE A PLASTIC SCRAPER BETWEEN SANDING RUNS
- Some darkness in the milling areas in fine, this surface does not have to glass smooth just level and clean
- After everything was done I flipped the head right side up and poured boiling water through, this gets rid to any remaining carb cleaner and any windex in the intake tubes
- Then hit the injectors with compressed air
- MAKE SURE THE INTAKE IS COMPLETELY DRY BEFORE INSTALLATION WATER IN PISTONS IS BAD
I have more on this in my new head cleaning thread
The following users liked this post:
whowa004 (02-11-2020)
#33
The following 2 users liked this post by Richard Gallant:
Sixpack577 (02-11-2020),
whowa004 (02-11-2020)
#34
New heads into the machine shop 8:00 am done by lunch, quote they were in excellent shape:
Valves good
Valve seals replaced as the come with the kit
They confirmed no more than 2 thou - head the head decked for best mating
Looks like this long weekend I should be able to get her back together, with luck.
Valves good
Valve seals replaced as the come with the kit
They confirmed no more than 2 thou - head the head decked for best mating
Looks like this long weekend I should be able to get her back together, with luck.
The following users liked this post:
Sixpack577 (02-12-2020)
#35
Well I have a plan :
Saturday
Sunday
Everything else
Top up rad with water only - it will get dumped after warm up
Oil change - cheap oil it will be dumped after 100 miles max - good filter
Post start plan:
Oil change at 100 miles or a couple of hours of driving, make sure any left over contaminants are picked up and then removed.
Run water only during initial startup,same idea get rid of any left over contamination - I may do a light duty flush if the water looks "off"
Put AF back in
Drive the Disco everywhere to put a few hundred miles on it, and know she is a happy truck
Saturday
- Clean the block and bolt holes - this is going in to be a large part of the day. There are large chunks of gasket that need to be hit with gasket remover, and from my testing it is going to be painful and slow.
- Clean all the push rods while I wait for the gasket cleaner to work
- Misc cleaning of other bits
- Fix wiring loom that sits under the intakes and any other wiring issues
- Reconnect CPS - it did not click firmly when I installed the new one
Sunday
- Fit the heads
- Lower intake
- Rockers
- Alternator and PS/Air Con brackets
- Coil packs
Everything else
Top up rad with water only - it will get dumped after warm up
Oil change - cheap oil it will be dumped after 100 miles max - good filter
Post start plan:
Oil change at 100 miles or a couple of hours of driving, make sure any left over contaminants are picked up and then removed.
Run water only during initial startup,same idea get rid of any left over contamination - I may do a light duty flush if the water looks "off"
Put AF back in
Drive the Disco everywhere to put a few hundred miles on it, and know she is a happy truck
#36
Well Saturday went to hell in a handbasket, 11:00 to 7:00 pm Clean gasket material from block, all but 1.5 hours of that time,many many bad words were used. Last hour was cleaning bolt holes, that at least was the expected time frame.
I also cleaned up some wiring loom while I waited for the Gasket cleaner to "work"
Used gasket removal spray
Hard plastic scrapers
Next to zero effect after 2 hours - ok I killed 3 scrapers
Then I did a bit of research and found a resin based scraper for gas stove tops and granite countertops popped down the hardware store and progress began ! it is called a
Before - Note carb clean works really well on piston heads
After an hour and 1/2
Finished
Finished
Wiring loom was just replacing old crumbling covering
Low tack cloth wiring tape
Braided Loom
Before
Taped
Finished except for zip ties at the ends
I also cleaned up some wiring loom while I waited for the Gasket cleaner to "work"
Used gasket removal spray
Hard plastic scrapers
Next to zero effect after 2 hours - ok I killed 3 scrapers
Then I did a bit of research and found a resin based scraper for gas stove tops and granite countertops popped down the hardware store and progress began ! it is called a
Before - Note carb clean works really well on piston heads
After an hour and 1/2
Finished
Finished
Wiring loom was just replacing old crumbling covering
Low tack cloth wiring tape
Braided Loom
Before
Taped
Finished except for zip ties at the ends
#37
No pictures a long 3 day week end and I got the heads in place, with the rear bolt on the driver side holding me up, I need a small headed 3/8 torque wrench to get in there. Wobbles do not give enough room. Found a perfect sized one, but it is in inch lbs.
Cleaned up a few bits I have a line on a 3/8 that should work.
Cleaned up a few bits I have a line on a 3/8 that should work.
The following users liked this post:
whowa004 (02-18-2020)
#38
The getting left side head torqued down saga https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...uestion-99051/
Next up valley pan gasket and push rods, my push rods look awful but clean up fast with some orange citrus degreaser, 000 blue scotch brite pad and 10 minutes of work.
I have only done 1 as a test but man it works well:
After on top before below
Next up valley pan gasket and push rods, my push rods look awful but clean up fast with some orange citrus degreaser, 000 blue scotch brite pad and 10 minutes of work.
I have only done 1 as a test but man it works well:
After on top before below
#40
@redwhitekat If the Network Migration goes good this weekend early next week. I am in no hurry I just want it done right the 1st time, although the wife is tired of me thinking and talking about it.
After assembly:
pressure test the cooling system
Run her up to temp
Dump the water and re-fill with AF
Run back to temp
Drive daily to get about a 100 miles on her then dump the temp oil and re-fill with good oil
After assembly:
pressure test the cooling system
Run her up to temp
Dump the water and re-fill with AF
Run back to temp
Drive daily to get about a 100 miles on her then dump the temp oil and re-fill with good oil