Ok, so I'm in middle of a fight with my transfer case, and dropped the rear shaft. Seems that rubber/metal contraption (called a Rotoflex - thank you search button) has gone to the great beyond.

I'm seeing several options, but have a couple questions.

This kit, from RovahFarm: Coupling Kit - Hardy Spicer OE
Ref: TVF100010G / Price $79.95
Application: Disco I '94 - '99 and Disco II, '99 - '04 Hardy Spicer Superceded from STC2764

Has a bearing in it. Where does the bearing go? I saw no bearing come out of this?

Bolts are not an issue, I can source wonderful grade 8 automotive bolts locally.

So my thoughts are simply to get a new rubber thingy and re-install.

How flawed is this plan? Am I risking life, limb, or the Iran Nuclear deal here?

 

Per usual we are on the same track.

I weighed just replacing my rotoflex and decided to rotoflex delete instead for durability and longevity. You know I've done a lot lately on my truck but that is next on my list.

I hate the thought of being stranded by a lump of rubber. When I saw it the first time, I couldn't believe that was what made me go, in the back.

 

Heres just the rotoflex...Why do you need new bolts? Be sure to pay attention to the arrows on the rotoflex for direction of bolts.

Rear Rotoflex Coupling Kit : Rear Driveshaft Rubber Coupling

 

I replaced my original when I first bought the truck, now it's a spare in the rig along with a few other hard parts...

 

My Rotoflex lasted 11 years and 120K miles including 20K miles towing ................................ not bad for a lump of rubber I only changed it as I was rebuilding the front and rear driveshafts and it had some minor cracking in the rubber.

IMO if it lasted that long and it takes the intial shock impact factor from the rear diff (diffs cost a lot more than Rotoflex's) so be it. My theory is 'if it ain't broke don't fix it'. There is no bearing involved with the Rotoflex only a centralising spigot Loctited into the diff drive flange. Generally the bolts are supplied new with the new Rotoflex of which Hardy Spicer and GKN are the best IMO, my new Rotoflex is a GKN HD.

 

Well now that you all mention it, I am on my original rotoflex and it has 150k on it. And looks fine. Hmm.

Does it change anyone's opinion if you have a lift of about 4 inches?

 

I think lucky 8 recommends the conversion for anything over 3", but it probably matters more if you have the castor arms.

Mines at 140k with quite a bit of heavy towing during the last 20k and almost entirely hard driving during the whole last 20k. It's fine other than some minor dry rot, but I'll probably be replacing with new when I lift.

 

I changed mine when I first got my truck at 76k. Consider that Mercedes uses rotoflexes for every vehicle we have in production, (including the 600hp 700ft-lbs torque monsters) I dont even think about it.

 

Haha that is slightly more horsepower than [3] Land rover discoveries. But my thinking had to do more with the flex that is expected of the lump of rubber at angles car axles wouldn't experience. But point taken. ATL if you decide one way or another will you please post your thinking?

 

Well I'll bow out of here but before I do... ATL look at how easy this appears... http://www.discoweb.org/rotoconversion.htm