Two problems. The Rotoflex takes out the windup and the shock from the diff and half shafts. You require the very expensive special puller to remover the Rotoflex peg or spigot, they conveniently don't mention that little gem.

Also the price of the driveshaft vs. Rotoflex is a consideration on a truck 12 to 20 years old.

 

Good points. I was just making a pitch for the delete option because ATL and I are generally doing the same thing at the same time and I figured there would be some discussion that could guide us both. And that's what we have, so, awesome!

My buddy had his rotoflex conversion done at a shop and it doesn't normally work on rovers so they made the puller by welding a bolt to an old pair of vice grips. Seems like an official tool would be better. I watched some videos and more elaborate tools were made... I can't do that.

I looked under the cars in my driveway and I admit it is an aging fleet, but the rover is the only one with a rotoflex. Old mercedes, 4WD behemoth Excursion, 4WD Titan, and two other 2wd cars all have u joints at the back. The last one is front wheel drive and doesn't count. Of course, our big trucks have giant u joints at the back. I also looked at Tom Woods' site and unless I missed something, all of the HD rear driveshafts are u joints with four bolt flanges.

But, I agree that the rotoflex is the best, cheapest, and easiest choice for a stock height rover, and maybe a mild lift, too. The only reason I considered it is my lift is a little higher and puts more stress on the rotoflex. Also, I am looking at new rear driveshafts anyway, so the cost difference is negligible.

But if I go the rotoflex route, the HD ones mentioned above (GKN) are what I would get.

I found these images on Discoweb that show how much meatier the HD ones are:

 

Charlie, FYI I fitted the HD version of this GKN, it comes complete with bush and new bolts.

Land Rover Discovery 1 & 2 Rear Propshaft Rubber Coupling Doughnut Kit - GKN- STC2794G

JGS4x4 is UK based so probably not viable for you guys.

 

I can imagine this only works OK for a couple of inches of body lift or for mild offroad use but I guess for hard offroad and rock crawling with greater lift it won't work OK.

 

The exchange rate is great but the shipping stinks. Thanks for the link. I'll see if I can find the same here.

 

Any tips on removing the centering sleeve/bearing? Does it even *need* to be removed? (I've heard conflicting reports).


My rotoflex has some spider racking that is visible, but still works (no vibration). I figured I'd preempt it, replace it, and use it as a spare. I'm assuming at this point the centering sleeve is just fine, but I'll inspect it. I've heard people use torches, dremmels, etc. to get it out, but no mention on how easy it is to press in the new one? If the sleeve looks good, I'm probably not even going to touch it.


Another poster mentions Mercedes...I picked up an e320 for a commuter for cheap. It's a 2000, or 1 year newer than my Disco. Knowing the condition of my Disco's rotoflex, I was worried about the merc, especially since it has two of them. Granted, mine isn't a high horsepower merc, but my rotoflexes are perfect, which is part of the reason I know the wrinkles in my Disco aren't "normal".


It's kind of ironic too, because when the Rotoflex comes up on the 3-pointed star board, it's always a photo of the D2 rotoflex that is used as a guide. Why? Because Land Rover was smart enough to mold directional arrows into the rotoflex. The Mercedes do not have this, and many unaware DIYers put it on backwards and it explodes shortly thereafter. !

 

Rotoflex - I opted to keep mine. My truck is not lifted, and probably won't be in the near future.

I am also a benz nerd, and believe firmly that if a rotoflex can handle and AMG engine, then this v-8 buick rattlebox in the rover isn't going to touch it.

Also - rotoflex easier to swap on the side of the road than a U-joint. Much easier.

Went with the hardie spicer part from RovahFarm, been very happy with it. took out some driveline noise as well.

Removal of the centering bushing, once exposed, is a sharp tap with a machinists hammer and some vise grips.

Now, back to berating myself for not replacing all T-case seals when I had it out on the bench...

 

"Now, back to berating myself for not replacing all T-case seals when I had it out on the bench... "


-Lol. My biggest leak point right now is the T-case!

I'll have to get me some nice vice grips and I'll look into a machinists hammer. My ball-peen is probably too big.

So it's not as big of a deal as some other threads mention? You didn't loosen it with a penetrant oil or anything? I'm assuming for re-assembly just tap the new one in until it sets?

The Rotoflex does look easier than a U-joint and to my eye looks like it will hold up to sligh mis-alignments better than a U-joint too. At first, I thought rubber back there was downright stupid. The more I think of it, the more I think it's a superior design, just keep an eye on it because it will show visible signs prior to exploding, but not necessarily audible/vibratory ones like a U-joint typically will.