Hi folks I need a little advice.

I am getting a rough idle on first start up that only lasts until I tap the accelerator. Maybe unrelated, I also have a P1173 code. My cats and Y pipe are about 3 months old, as are my O2s (all four, Bosch). About a month ago I was also getting a large evap leak code, but I changed the gas cap and that went away.

Today when I started it the first time I popped the hood before tapping the accelerator and put my hand on the upper intake and it almost felt and sounded like something was moving around inside the engine. I couldn't isolate it, and it might be a pulley or something else, but as soon as I tapped the accelerator the roughness went away and it was smooth. I have a code reader on at all times and the fuel system is closed as it should be. I am ignoring the P1173 because I know I have new cats and new O2s. My MAF was replaced with new maybe 6 months ago.

Unfortunately I did not check the rpms before tapping the accelerator.

Any ideas?

Best,

Charlie V

 

I should also mention that I probably have a minor vac leak somewhere. My cruise only comes on when I toggle the switch for accelerate and instead of coast it just goes off. No resume, just accelerate it to activate and leave it alone. It holds speed then. My PCV fitting broke and I used some redneck engineering (aluminum tape) to seal it, but it is sealed and I've been driving it that way for maybe 6 months. But when I start up the brake assist is weak until I get to the end of my driveway.

 

I also noticed today that it takes a few more cranks than usual to start the engine. Any ideas?

 

Cruise makes vacuum from it's own vacuum pump.
So cruise is not related to any problems.

 

What ^he^ said about the cruise issue. I would check that the cruise control cable at the throttle body to make sure it is adjusted okay, and then follow it to the pump to make sure it is connected correctly.

P1173 Downstream fuel trim malfunction (bank 2)

The 1173 is a vacuum leak. Since it is on the Bank 2 side that is where you should focus your search.
You just installed a lot of new parts that could cause this. I would suspect that you are leaking air past the PCV valve that you rigged up (I assume the part you broke was the plastic nipple that the PCV hose connects to on the intake). A Vac leak could also cause a rough idle. I would do a smoke test and find your vac leak before you replace anything.

https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-cigar-54235/

Hope this helps

 

That does help. I thought the 1173 was the downstream O2 sensor. It is definitely a vac leak then. Sigh. Yes I broke the little red cage that holds the hose in the foremost vacuum port on the passenger side of the throttle body, then managed to booger the whole fitting. It makes sense that the leak is there because, paradoxically, I can't hear it. When I could hear it, it was probably a much smaller leak. I'll look there and let you know what I find. I suppose at startup I have no vacuum and it is taking it longer to develop a useful vacuum because of a leak.

 

It sounds like you broke the brake servo vacuum hose not the PCV. If it is the part I think then I broke it also and had it rigged up for over a year until I broke down and paid the money for new plastic parts. $60 for both the vac tube and connector. They usually break together but you may just need one or the other.

Intake Manifold Brake Servo Vacuum (Genuine Part # LZN100220L ) - Land Rover hydraulics from Atlantic British
Hose Brake Servo To Intake Manifold W/ Sec. Air Injec. (Genuine Part # SQB103301 ) - Land Rover hoses from Atlantic British

 

Well yes that is what I meant. I really hate that little thing, and I need a new one. However, I wiggled my servo hose and induced a leak, then let it go and the leak went away. Somehow, I have tuned my ears for rushing air and I am hearing it on top of the upper intake. However, that may just be a normal whooshing because I spent 30 minutes putting my hands all over it and while I could change the sound by cupping my hands toward my face, nowhere I touched made any difference. I removed, checked, and re clamped the two hoses in the back (from intake hose and throttle body) with no change. I can't see a problem with the hoses but as an experiment I wrapped both of the from one end to the other in 2 layers of electrical tape and heard no difference.

I may be going deaf from having my head over the engine, but it seemed to get better when I tightened the upper intake bolts (all 6). I did replace the upper intake plenum gasket some months ago and maybe they got loose. Any thoughts? I never know how long it is going to take for the SES light to come on.

I did not put anything on the intake plenum gasket... maybe I should have?the original one looked bad when I did my head gaskets--hence the replacement.

 

The plenum gasket is supposed to be fit dry so you should be good. However, that could be your problem. The 1173 is air entering the engine somewhere past the MAF on the Bank 2 side (right side) if the engine. If part of the plenum is not sealing well and letting air into 1 of 4 ports that run to the passenger side cylinders then it may be the cause of your vac leak.
Another possibility is 1 of the 4, bank 2 injector o-rings may be bad or you may have not tightened down the fuel rail all the way when you did your rebuild.

If you do have leak from the plenum gasket then a smoke test should reveal it.

 

I've never figured out the cruise control and didn't know that it made its own vacuum. Good information! Thanks!