One question, if I remove the pipes from the solenoids to the heads and cap off the heads and just leave the solenoids open, any idea if the computer will notice? I need to do something to stop the leaking and since trying to remove the pipes is only resulting in more cracking this might be a reasonable quick solution. I figure I can just take the nuts off the pipes and braze the opening closed and put them back on for now.

Any fault with that?

 

WHY do you want to remove them anyway ? Yes the , check engine light will come on ! when the ECU requestes the pump to run it expects to see a change from the O2 sensors IE more oxygen in the exhaust system. Its job is to add extra oxygen to help the cats heat up quicker.fix it right !
replace the broken pipes !

 

I agree. You will drive the ECU nuts and it will affect your driveability.

 

Guess I find a 2001 ECU to put in then. It'll be cheaper than new pipes, and the several hundred dollars extra every time any work needs to be done, and more breaking, it's just nor worth it. It takes about 90 seconds to 180 seconds for the cats to heat up to operating temperature, it's a gimmick.

 

That and the performance heads I'm looking at don't have the ports. If you don' t have SAI, would you add it?

 

If you are wanting to benefit from really well built heads, you will also need a compatiable cam and lifters to make the engine brief as well as headers.
You will need more then the ECU replacement, I have been in touch with a guy who went thru nearly 2 months of hassel trying to make anothe ECU work, and it isn't as easy as you make it sound.
As for your question, why would anyone add SAI, but when you have to have it you don't have alot of options.
As a side note, I am still waiting on an answer to the message i sent you.

 

You mis-read, I said heads not headers. Which message? I've always responsed right away to any I've gotten? Yeah, it would need to be heads, headers, hi-flow cats, and exhaust to make the proper difference.

Given the cost of SAI failing eventually, not to mention $250 per pipe to replace them if they crack... I'd just braze it but I can't seem to get it to come out at all gracefully, none of the manuals include enough information.

 

Actually, anyone know where I could buy some flexipipe that I could just attach to the various ends when I do manage to get them off? Then moving things around during future work will be easier and solve the leaking issue for now.