Ok I have been looking for decent Disco for under 5k for awhile now and of course come across mostly junk so far.

Engine knocking,cracked bumpers,flooded.. you name it.

I came across a 2001 with 71k and looked very nice... Upon inspection and drive found it to be darn near immaculate. No CEL,Engine is quiet,tons of pride in ownership and the low mileage shows on the interior.
Asking price was 5500.. Which is high and mentioned he would work with me on that.

Ask for the Vin and it comes back rebuilt because of a front end collision in 2003(must of been a good one). The car was repaired and back on the road in 2004. I offered 3k and he countered with 4k bottom line price(seems serious about that).

Compared to the other 6 or 7 I have seen this thing is twice as nice in every way. So would you walk..? Obviously a inspection would be in order.. I am pretty mechanical and saw no obvious signs of any issues.

I come from 99 Grand cherokee V8 4x4 loaded out and have actually had two of them. The last one recently was totaled and I've always wanted a Disco.. I do my own work for almost everything repair or maintenance related.

I'm moving to colorado and want something for exploring the mountains,awd for snow and mild to medium wheeling in mind(those 19's would be sold off and replaced with all terrains and 16's).



Whatcha think?

 

If you intend on taking it off road, be sure that you check that the center differential has the internal components to be locked... In 2000 and 2001 some had them, some didn't, but none came from the factory with the shift linkage due to the advent of traction control. In 2003 they didn't even come with the internal components, but in 2004, they came with the components and the shift linkage.

If it doesn't have the internal components for the CDL to be locked, I would walk away. If it does, you simply have to decide how long you are going to keep it and make sure that you read here about how to check for slipped liners or indications of head gasket issues... before you buy it...

You have to be willing and able to be a competent wrench...

 

It has CDL and I tested it to make sure and it was very easy to use.
I'm having a hard time following what you mean "none came from the factory with the shift linkage". It had a CDL lever and it increased the ratio when switching to low range(felt similar to my grand cherokee).

it will be inspected by myself and a mechanic before purchase. The how long I keep it depends on how big of a PITA ownership is.

In comparison I also found a clean titled 2003 with 165k but in great shape.. broken rear bumper and the front bumper cover is removed and painted underneath(looks fine). This one and the above mentioned are the only candidates so far.

03 vs 01 03>01 based on power.. appearance is a wash because the 01 has less wear(exterior at least)
71k vs 165k well you get the idea

The rebuilt title on the 01 is a negative but in my head the 71k miles almost outweighs that. I like the idea of more power(coming from a V8 grand cherokee that hauls). I also like the 03 interior vs the 01.

 

Has the front shaft been upgraded? (not the OEM one with 2 grease fittings)
$4000 might be ok depending on where you're at (book values are different from coast to coast)
Since you're moving to CO, have you looked ahead (Craigslist, AutoTrader, etc) to see if there's any deals? May want to wait til after you move.

 

All models have the Hi/Lo range selector. Center Differential Lock is different than Hi/Lo range.

Land Rovers are All Wheel Drive, not 4-wheel drive. The differentials are open, including the center differential. This means that the power will go to whatever wheel is slipping (essentially one wheel drive when a wheel is slipping). A locking center differential, when locked, will send 50% of the power to the front drive shaft and 50% to the rear drive shaft. When a wheel slips, it will only get 50% of forward power as the other 50% will be distributed to one of the wheels (front or rear) that isn't slipping.

Land Rover thought that the advances in traction control eliminated the need for a locking center differential, and many here believe that they thought that owners were incapable of using a locking center differential in conjunction with traction control, so they changed the shifting mechanism from being capable of locking the center differential to only being able to shift between Hi/Lo range... However, there were a couple of model years where the internal components were present in the center differential that would allow it to still be locked if a different shifting mechanism was installed. Typically owners will install a Discovery I shift linkage, or one from a 2004 Disco II, which is when Land Rover decided that owners weren't too stupid to use the locking capabilities.

You need to read up on this, because a locking center differential will be essential to off roading capabilities. There is an easy way to tell from under the truck, you just need to know where to look and what to feel for.

If it doesn't have a center differential that is capable of being locked (with the correct shift linkage), then it will cost you significantly more to make it a decent off roading rig... Outfitting it with the correct cable is a few hundred dollars, depending on how you go... but if you have to add the internal components to the center differential, you are going to be well over that...

To get true 4 wheel drive, you would need a locking center differential and locking rear differential and a Detroit TrueTrac locking front differential. You cannot put a fully locking front differential in the front, because you wouldn't be able to steer without putting everything in the front end in a terrible bind.

Do your research first. Don't pull the trigger until you know what you are getting into. These vehicles are maintenance intensive and quirky, but when they are outfitted correctly for what you want to do with them, and you keep up with the preventative maintenance, they are AWESOME!

 

I would buy it, you wont find one better, with less mileage with a CDL (nipple on the transfercase) that's the 4.0 (less problematic and cheaper parts). The salvage title, let me explain to you what it really is:

The Land Rover (almost all of them) depreciate in value extremely fast because of their notorious expensive parts, expensive costs to fix (at dealer) and "unreliability." If the car is worth 4000$ in bluebook value, a new plastic front bumper is worth 600$ and the dealership cost to install is 300$, the insurance company will call it a total loss and compensate the owner and the truck goes to the dump. My truck is a salvage title, my previous owner rear ended someone and just cracked the front bumper, and they totaled it, the owner bought it off the insurance company for cheap and I bought it for cost, the crush cans weren't even bent from the accident...

 

I disagree... The OP stated that it is a 2001 and that the front end accident that resulted in total loss declaration occurred in 2003. Had to have been a fairly substantial front end collision to total a 2 year old $40,000.00 original sticker price vehicle.

If the accident happened last year, I'd agree, but not 2 years after it was built. Plus, if it happened last year, it wouldn't have required a total loss declaration and salvage title because it would have been more than 10 years old (At least that's the law in Indiana).

Check it out thoroughly...

I'm not suggesting that you don't buy it, because it may be in great repaired condition... The fact that it has been back on the road since 2004 is a good sign... Just know what you are getting into... Not just on the initial cost of the vehicle, but the ongoing maintenance and repair costs as well.

 

Easier said that done right now we only have 2 cars(a 3rd in the near future) and its tough to get around sharing one.

I dont think I have ever been more confused.

In My grand cherokee and every jeep Ive owned center diff lock is just a fancy word for low rang which transfers 50/50 front rear and lowers the gear ratio(my grand is 2.72 to 1). Like I said shifting the diff lock from H to L lowered the ratio(I can tell by the amount of force preloading on the brakes(a surge). After reading all the CDL does is shift into low range and 50/50 split.

Crash was in 2003 which would mean it was a big one.

Heres another concern.. since its crash its had 2 owners and the first owner averaged 5800 miles per year over 7 years and the 2nd slightly less.

Was it gas, proximity to work or just in the shop constantly that kept it off the road so much.

No rust,no frame damage, and appears IMO to be repaired well.

Another concern.. It looks great but it looks great because he works for a Aeronautics company and had it repainted by one the the on site guys(looks great/no orange peel and 3 part paint). and he also repaired the bumpers and did a bit here and there..

It came to him in a condition that isn't what it looks since he has owned it. Could have gotten a POS and made it look pretty with some new bumpers, Range rover rims and a new paint job..

Fact is it would cost me 4-6k to make it another busted LR look similar(paint,wheels,bumpers,cosmetic) and that means something.. under the hood it looks good but an inspection is in order either way.

I was thinking about throwing 3500 out there as an offer to protect myself a bit but would probably be rejected flat out.

I have found nothing that comes within 50% condition in the LR market and if not this one I fear I will just buy another Grand Cherokee.

 

Heres a simple comparison that will help me along.

Option 1
03 165k exterior condition 7/10 interior 9/10 drivetrain TBD(no amigos,leaks,owner has had 2 previous discos) clean title(many owners though) 3,700 OBO.. Is the additional power worth more miles? Does the updated look of the 03 trump a very clean 01?

Option 2 01 71k Exterior condition 10/10 Interior 8/10(clean but 01vs03) Drivetrain 8/10(drove nice,no amigos, tiny valve cover oil leak) SALVAGE title 4,000 FIRM.

Lets assume these are the only 2 options... GO!

 

Sorry to confuse you...

a locking center differential has four engaged positions...

Hi range non-locked - Sends power to one wheel when a wheel slips in high range gear ratio
Lo range non-locked - Sends power to one wheel when a wheel slips in lo range gear ratio
Essentially one-wheel drive when a wheel slips

Hi range Locked - 50/50 split of power to each drive shaft in high range gear ratio
Lo range Locked - 50/50 spilt of power to each drive shaft in lo range gear ratio
Essentially two-wheel drive when wheels slip (one front wheel and one rear wheel)

If you don't have knowledge of what locking differentials do, you need to do your research to help you understand.

Here is one example video... Not great - but may help explain

You can also install locking differentials in the front and rear axles as well in order to actually get all 4 wheels to drive at the same time.

Here is an example of a Series III Rover with Detroit TrueTrac locking diffs in each axle, while the center diff is locked...

There are several different types of locking differentials: Air Lockers, Electronic Lockers, and Mechanical Lockers.

Here is another video of an Electronic Locker

The same thing applies to the Center Differential (or transfer case) on the Land Rover. It is a mechanical locking differential if it is equipped with the internal components to be locked, and then equipped with the appropriate shift cable. See my first post with reference to model years... This 2001 may have the internal components, but based on your comments, it doesn't appear to have the shift linkage that would allow it to happen. There is an easy way to tell from under the vehicle if it has the internal components. You find the center differential and then reach up on the top side of the front end of it and feel for the CDL engagement nipple...

Here is a link to an instructional document that explains how to install an aftermarket shift linkage that will engage the Center Diff Lock. The pictures will show you what you are feeling for on the top of the center diff...

www.discovery2.co.uk/Factory Diff Lock

These are awesome, but quirky vehicles. That's why I suggest that you do your research first.

Read, read, read... watch videos or ask questions pertaining to anything you don't understand... Before you buy one...