See the images, below. I was replacing motor mounts today and made the mistake of resting for a minute and looking around (this almost always results in more work). Noticed torn up rubber, which initially looked like a damaged boot, under both front axles/hubs. There is darn little online showing this part of an '03 Disco 2 in diagram form, but it seems to me this is a seal, rather than a boot. The second image is a loose piece that I pulled out.

So ... What's it called? Where do I get more? Must I pull the entire CV assembly to replace?

Thanks.


I pulled the damaged rubber piece from here.



Sure feels like a boot, but everything I'm reading says its a seal. Whatever it is, its shot.

 

That's your lower ball joint seal/boot. If I had to guess I'd say the other side is the same way and the uppers are on their way if they're not already.

Luckily ball joints are cheap-ish parts. Just replace all four while you're at it instead of making more work for yourself later.

 

X1 .............. That's the grease/protection boot. Replace all 4, an easy days work.

Never look around the D2 too much otherwise you'll find enough work for 24/7.

 

Yep ... that's what it is, alright! Just ordered upper and lower ball joints for both sides from AB for about $100. That and a $75 Ball Joint Service Kit from Harbor Freight should see me through this particular task. Whether the CV/Axles need to be replaced will add fun and mystery to the chore.

 

I've heard that you may need to "shape" one of the cups in that HF ball joint kit for it to work, but that's not a big deal.

 

If I am "reading" this correctly, this is lower ball joint. Of course, Rover has upper and lower ball joints, and once the boot seals are shot, the ball joints go to hell. New ball joints, come with the rubber seals, of coure. Ball joints badly worn, can be very dangerous---I have seen them fall apart, with the whole hub hitting the ground, so it isn't anything to ignore. If you have little or no experience changing ball joints, trust me, getting them off, especially the upper ones, can be a real challenge, even with the needed special tools, though a pickle fork operated with air, does the job when other tools won't. My 2004 needed them, so, for now, I live in peace, knowing my ball joints are top notch, as new. Good luck with your changing them, you may need it.

 

The ball joint boots in my truck have been shot for years. It wasn't a job I wanted to do myself so I took it to a top notch, Rovers-only shop nearby. They checked out the ball joints and recommended that I leave them alone.

It's true that failed ball joints can be very dangerous and years ago I saw photos of old Chevys and Fords that had that happen, but in this case the shop I went to said they've seen Rover ball joints with shredded boots go for years without needing to be replaced. I suppose it depends also on where and how you drive your truck.

I may get it done anyway one of these days just as a preventive measure, but for now I've taken the path of testing the ball joints every six months or so with a crowbar to see if there is any detectable play. So far there has not been. There are probably videos on YouTube showing how to test them.

 

I am going ahead and changing the ball joints, or at least attempting to. The reason being that I have a "binding" issue when the steering is recovering from a hard left-hand turn. Typically only when under extreme torque (like turning left on the bottom of a hill and immediately starting uphill as you come out of the turn). I've replaced the tie rod (shredded boots and very loose), the drag link (same condition as the tie rod, but bent), am about to go outside and finish the motor mount replacement (the top plate, driver's side was sheered-off). I've also replaced the power steering pump, but the binding was there before and after that new pump. Replaced the power steering reservoir too.Yes, the system has been bled several times. If all that fails, I do have a new high pressure hose coming for the power steering, the thought being that something is blocking the current hose.

I'll track it down, eventually.

 

Page 54-3 of RAVE. It takes about 1+ hours each ball joint and it's a doddle if you pre-soak well overnight with penetrating oil and liberally use heat . It's worth replacing the CV joints and axle seals at the same time so reckon on 2-3 hours each side. It's easier to replace the ball joints without the driveshaft and CV joints in place and use pipe and pipe fittings with large strong G clamps to press out the ball joints, no special LR tools needed.

 

Thank you. Always a pleasure to see the word "doddle". Great word, it just doesn't get much use in central Texas.