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Secondary air tube/hose cracked - please help

Old May 31, 2012 | 07:43 PM
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Default Secondary air tube/hose cracked - please help

Hey guys,

Just want to say thanks for all the help you've provided me so far with my new Disco.

I brought it in today for a full tune-up/inspection and for a full break job. They did the breaks and pretty much everything looked good - the u-joints were already replaced on the drive shaft before I bought. The only thing they found were some small cracks in what the mechanic called a "secondary air tube" or hose...He said the part was $250 plus labor. This looks like something that I could get for a lot cheaper than $250 and just swap it out myself. I have attached 3 pics below. When your looking at the engine standing in front of the car it is on the left side about halfway down the engine.


Please let me know if it is even called the secondary air tube/hose, if there's an easy fix or where I can find a replacement part. I searched around but couldn't find anything.

Thanks so much!
 
Attached Thumbnails Secondary air tube/hose cracked - please help-photo-2.jpg   Secondary air tube/hose cracked - please help-photo-1.jpg   Secondary air tube/hose cracked - please help-photo-3.jpg  
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Old May 31, 2012 | 08:17 PM
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I had that happen to me a while back but was just a hairline crack, I put a glob of jb-quick on it just to try out and it held, been alittle over a year. but yes thats what is is called SAI sacondary air injection. not to bad to replace but be careful when cracking those nuts loose as the adapters they are tightend on are expensive as well. not hard to replace and might wanna check local yards to see if you can find a used one.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 08:36 PM
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Thanks for the quick response! I guess my next question is, in my state we don't have emissions testing so other than that is there any downside to keep running the vehicle without sealing it or replacing it? Right when I turn it on it idles pretty loud for about 10 seconds and comes back down to normal and is pretty quiet...
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 08:44 PM
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I just read about that J-B Kwik that you spoke of and I think I'm going to give that a shot. The cracks are pretty small.
 
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Old May 31, 2012 | 09:44 PM
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Should of done a little more research before I started this thread. I found the answer to what exactly it is and what I need. And a good explanation of why it cracked right in the RAVE manual section 17-2-28. This is what it says:

The air delivery pipe is a flexible plastic type, and is connected to the air pump outlet via a plastic quick-fit connector. The other end of the flexible plastic pipe connects to the fixed metal pipework via a short rubber hose. The part of the flexible plastic pipe which is most vulnerable to engine generated heat is protected by heat reflective sleeving. (Which mine wore/melted off, thus burning the hold thru the pipe). The metal delivery pipe has a fabricated T-piece included where the pressurised air is split for delivery to each exhaust manifold via the SAI control valves.
 

Last edited by PackAttack12; May 31, 2012 at 09:46 PM.
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 06:32 AM
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I believe those are stainless to could probably have a welding shop tig it right were it is for a couple bucks and not have to play with replacing it.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 07:54 AM
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People have bought used pipes from the usual recyclers for pretty cheap. Check with Paul Grant or Will Tillery.
 
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Old Jun 1, 2012 | 09:05 AM
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Just curious, why did you spend a bundle on having a shop do your brakes and tune up when you could have done it for a 1/4 of the cost. By the way if a tune up was done, it looks, per your pictures that they never even replaced your plug wires???????
How about the rest of the most likely needed service, take a look at my major service list at the top of this section, should do it all if you just bought it.
 
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