OK, I grabbed it for the intake vac deal then.
Done so much reading in the last 24 things
are starting to overlap, thus a noob with too many missions.
Trying to slow down some, want it all and now.

 

Im gonna try out that Torque Android app.. its a free download for basic and then the "pro" is only 4.95..watch all gauges in real time on your phone or pad.. its pretty cool IF it works well.. the OBD2 bluetooth adapter in only like 20 bucks(gamble). but it does diagnostics and lets you rest MIL codes as well.. ill let you know

 

That would be cool, I got an ipod touch it should work on.
The big display ones are neato, do alotta stuff.
I would have got it if not for the shipping delay.
But if you can get that for $25 I am in, be a good thing to have with the alarms.

 

I got to spend about 30 minutes with it today.
The wire for injector 2 was off, should be my one code fixed
once I get it back on.
Any reason it would be removed intentionally??

Cylinder 6 misfire was an obviously filthy plug.

And I saw some white slime inside the breather tube that comes
out the top of the valve cover, hope it ain't water in the oil.

Guess I will see this week when I change the oil.

 

No reason to have a wire off except for testing.

That breather on the passenger side has a squiggley plastic inside you can pull out with needle nose pliers, clean with carb cleaner. There is also a similar hose from valve cover or driver side, but no baffle. Clean out those hoses and the oil baffle, when clogged up they will make a little pressure inside the engine and make some seals leak. You can look inside your oil fill cap for more slime.

 

I got the plugs in, wires tomorrow I hope.
And I got the #2 injector plugged back in(SOB!)
Down to 5 codes now, 6 in an hour gone ain't bad.
3 codes are still misfires, perhaps the wires will cure them.
I think the others were P1590 and the P0134 02 sensor.

Oil looks clean, no obvious signs of water in the crankcase.
Collant system stopped the gurgling, holds pressure.
Things are looking up.
But I think I will still do head gaskets, timing, rods, lifters etc
So I know I got a solid ride under me.

Thanks again for everyones input.

 

ummmm... timing is done for you on the fly by the ECU and the crank sensor and some math with other sensors. The timing for each cylinder is set separately as you drive, and can all be different, part of the knock sensor adaptation. While HG's may be in your future, your miles would not indicate rods and lifters, etc. Would suggest you get the services caught up on the truck (fluids change, tranny fluid and filter, transfer case, differentials, etc.), new plugs and 8mm quality wires, radiator flush and coolant change, good battery, etc. There are plenty of things to do on a Rover.

 

I been reading and reading, seems many misfires were cured when the O2 error was fixed/replaced. I have hope.
Got 7 errors after a lil ride, the O2 error, the other 6 misfire related.
But it started to get hot again so parked again.
One thing I cannot find is the proper way to bleed the coolant system, do you have a link? I found many ways/posts, but someone always posts after that it's not right, or DM says call me.

 

You'll need to cure the "gets hot again" before worrying about misfires, etc.

1. Started to get hot = what on your temp gauge? Above 9:00 is not where you want to be. Warning light is not good.
2. Any noise under dash like water rushing thru pipes? That would be bubbles in coolant.
3. Do you have a code reader scanner that can read live data from the OBDII port, like coolant temp? That can show you the exact temp, instead of waiting for gauge to slowly register. If you are going over 212, you can stop before going to 235, etc.

The cooling system has four paths for coolant to take, so bubbles can be in one path, and show up later. From the outflow of the water pump it is inside the block.

Some comes out a small hose to the throttle body heater, then returns to the coolant reserve "jug".

Some come out to a larger hose, and goes thru the firewall to the heater core and returns to the intake of the water pump. There is no valve for the heater core, hot water all the time.

Most goes out the pipe from the block to a large "T". At that spot, some passes down to the top of the thermostat, thru some small holes, and into the themostat housing where it mixes with radiator coolant (cooler temp) and wakes up the thermostat. This coolant flows out of the side leg of the thermostat housing and back to the intake of the water pump.

When the thermostat opens, coolant flows thru the radiator and up thru the thermostat and to the water pump. Starts to open at 180F, fully open at 204F.

So if you pour in when system is cold, air could get trapped in one of those four paths. Some folks unbolt the coolant tank and raise it, so it is above everything else. The bleeder valve is open, so air can find a way out. Some guys turn off the bleeder too soon, trying to keep the mess down. You can catch coolant in a pan. Main point is that guys stop the bleeding process due to mess, before it is complete.

When you crank up the truck it will flow about 2.6 gallons per minute thru the water pump, so in two minutes it has circulated the whole coolant supply. But it can take several paths, and all the bubbles may not come to the bleed screw hole first pass.

You need to top up several times. Flow path chart attached.

 

The first time it did red light.
Did have the water noise that time, not this time.
My reader is a cheapo right now.
Should the electric fan run when it gets that hot?
We have not seen it come on. I switched relays and checked the fuses, all OK.
The clutch fan seems good, sucks a flame into the grill, less than 1/2 spin warm.
This manual is still downloading, BIG as it says.