As I mentioned in a previous post, I am doing the HG's but ran in to a problem. The sleeve of #4 was pushed out of the block but just under 1mm:

Thru a little high school science I was able to press the sleeve back down. By loading the cylinder with dry ice, and using a 1/2" steel plate with holes drilled to match the head bolt locations I pushed the sleeve down gradually:

First load

First Press

Second load

Second press

Sleeve has gone from being up .83mm to .406mm

Third press

Sleeve flush with block
The super cold dry ice contracted the sleeve just enough to get it to move, just like pro mechanics shrink bearings before installation. In between each press, the balance of the dry ice was removed and the block came back to room temp very quickly. I used the old head bolts with a coating of 3in1 oil. To keep the bolts from going all the way down, each bolt had 10 washers on it. The bolts were put in using a cross pattern and a cheater bar applying a 90* turn to simulate torqueing the bolts down. The trick was to get the plate in place very quickly as you want limited transfer of the cold to the block from the sleeve.
Do I know if this is going to keep the sleeve down long once I get the engine buttoned back up? No clue but this battle plan came from the guy who milled my heads and builds competition racing engines like the Ford 427 he had on the test stand today. Wish I could drop that into my Rover!

 

Great job!

 

Nice ! In theory it should stay with a good quality gasket,properly torqued head and good cooling system

 

Excellent work!! If you want it to stay you can pin the cylinders - multiple writeups on that.

 

Pinned sleeve pdf...

 

Very nice work, but having dodged a bullet I'd do what Extinct said and go ahead and pin the liners.

 

Why did you remove the dry ice from the cylinder cavity when you put the plate on top? Wouldn't it have been better to leave it in there so that things stayed cold for a little longer?

 

what did the head gasket metal ring look like for that cylinder vs the others? Block mght have been sent out from factory like that, or liner moved on it's own later.... If the HG shows signs of chronic impact (ie: a dirty indented ring) vs a clean compressed ring(like it's always been that way...)....

Bottom of head dented in at that cylinder?

And finally, anyone know what HG compression thickness is? Compare that to your 'proud liner measurement.'

 

I think OP did leave it in place for the press, but removed it between each press so the block would stay as warm as possible.

 

I did not remove the dry ice when I put the press plate on. I removed it after each press. The transfer of the cold from the steel to the block happens very quickly so each time I would remove the dry ice, allow everything to come back to room temp. Then drop more dry ice and quickly go to pressing. The main goal is to shrink just the sleeve as quickly as possible.