Slipped sleeve and a little bit of high school science
Okay, to answer all questions at once:
1) Pinning the liners is not an option as the block is still in the car.
2) I'm going to use the Elring gaskets to put it back together
3) The dry ice was removed between each pressing to allow the sleeve and cylinder to come back up to room temp. Reload with dry ice and repeat.
4) The original gasket was dented a bit on the side facing the sleeve, No damage to the head itself.
1) Pinning the liners is not an option as the block is still in the car.
2) I'm going to use the Elring gaskets to put it back together
3) The dry ice was removed between each pressing to allow the sleeve and cylinder to come back up to room temp. Reload with dry ice and repeat.
4) The original gasket was dented a bit on the side facing the sleeve, No damage to the head itself.
You can pin the cylinders in the car, requires a right angle drill and removal of the oil pan and motor mounts.
XRAD I measured the compressed thickness once and remember it to be in the range of .023, I have a set of used gaskets at home I will check this evening.
XRAD I measured the compressed thickness once and remember it to be in the range of .023, I have a set of used gaskets at home I will check this evening.
The dry ice was easy to get. I got it from a local Airgas welding supply shop. $20 for about 20 lbs. Only used about 10 lbs. of it. Stopped at a local supermarket and bought a Styrofoam cooler to transport and store until I was able to get the project underway in the evening.
I haven’t done this job, but plenty of jobs using heat or cold (I’m an aircraft mechanic). Removing the dry ice is probably a good idea in this situation as aluminum expands and contracts with temperature a lot more than steel. (This would be why our steel sleeves slip easily when the engine overheats). Leaving the dry ice in would cause the aluminum block to contract, eventually more than the steel, which would make it tighter yet.
Okay, to answer all questions at once:
1) Pinning the liners is not an option as the block is still in the car.
2) I'm going to use the Elring gaskets to put it back together
3) The dry ice was removed between each pressing to allow the sleeve and cylinder to come back up to room temp. Reload with dry ice and repeat.
4) The original gasket was dented a bit on the side facing the sleeve, No damage to the head itself.
1) Pinning the liners is not an option as the block is still in the car.
2) I'm going to use the Elring gaskets to put it back together
3) The dry ice was removed between each pressing to allow the sleeve and cylinder to come back up to room temp. Reload with dry ice and repeat.
4) The original gasket was dented a bit on the side facing the sleeve, No damage to the head itself.
You are probably good to go.....if you can't pin them, and not pulling the engine, no other option except put it together and drive it....
If it's a bad block or liner, you will know soon enough...
I suspect I will know when the car come sup to operating temp. Again, this was my best option. The HG that blew was actually on the other side. For all I know I could have a slipped sleeve again at #4 and and a cracked block between #5 & #7. If that is the case, I'm going to do what any decent humane person would do..... pull out my .45 and put it out of it's (and mine) misery.
This is interesting, I am taking mine to a shop in Wall, NJ to get pinned. He is doing it with the engine in, but is going to remove the exhaust, does that make sense? I have not seen that mentioned in any of the reading. I kind of assume it would have to be.


