Discovery II Talk about the Land Rover Discovery II within.
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Slow Cold Start

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 07-03-2014 | 11:54 PM
RicketyTick's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Default Slow Cold Start

Before I put in new headgaskets, rebuilt heads, timing set, oil pump my engine would start with just barely a touch of the ignition switch. Now it takes like a second to start. Maybe 3 or 4 revolutions of the engine when cold.

It does start faster after it's hot but still not right. In the morning from a cold start is when it is the most noticeable. I bump the key switch like I used to and it doesn't start right up and I have to spin the engine few rounds. Hard to get used to.

Any ideas what may be the cause of this?

I haven't checked my fuel pressure yet since it's an 03 and hard to get to. Don't know if I can get to the test valve without removing anything? I guess I'll have to try to get to the valve. Can that be done without removing anything?

Could it be an injector or fuel rail not holding pressure and leaking down or something like that? or maybe a weak fuel pump?

I checked my connection to my fuel rail several times before putting my coil back in so I know it's right, it snapped on and would not pull back off.

I have checked all under the hood and crawled around under the truck and reached up around the back of the engine from below and can't see or smell any fuel leaks.

Once it starts it runs fine and idles fine.

I know I aligned the timing gears correctly I checked and double checked before putting on the front cover so I can rule that out.

Any help with what to check would be appreciated.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 07-04-2014 at 07:51 AM.
  #2  
Old 07-04-2014 | 08:02 AM
Jared9220's Avatar
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 1,064
Likes: 16
From: San Antonio,Tx
Default

I have found the best way to get to schrader valve to do the pressure test is to unclip the harness and remove the rubber seal along the back of the firewall. You should be able to reach your hand behind the upper manifold and get to the valve now. If you mark the hood hinges and take the hood off it makes seeing and getting to the valve 50x better. If you be sure to mark the hinges before you take it off then you won't have to fight with realigning the hood when you put it back on.
 
  #3  
Old 07-04-2014 | 08:30 AM
RicketyTick's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Default

Originally Posted by Jared9220
I have found the best way to get to schrader valve to do the pressure test is to unclip the harness and remove the rubber seal along the back of the firewall. You should be able to reach your hand behind the upper manifold and get to the valve now. If you mark the hood hinges and take the hood off it makes seeing and getting to the valve 50x better. If you be sure to mark the hinges before you take it off then you won't have to fight with realigning the hood when you put it back on.
Thank you! I'll see if I can get in there and test that today.

thanks for the tip on marking the hood hinge location.

Like someone said, the fun never ends.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 07-04-2014 at 09:05 AM.
  #4  
Old 07-04-2014 | 10:08 AM
dusty1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 210
From: dallas texas
Default

I think you are on the right track with your suspicion. Did you notice any brittle inj seals? Did you replace them?
 
  #5  
Old 07-04-2014 | 10:10 AM
dusty1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 210
From: dallas texas
Default

Cold start, turn to on and pump is working for a few seconds, then start. Any change?
 
  #6  
Old 07-04-2014 | 10:31 AM
RicketyTick's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Default

Originally Posted by dusty1
Cold start, turn to on and pump is working for a few seconds, then start. Any change?
Nope no change turning to on for a second before starting. I tried that. I even tried turning to on and then off and then on again before starting and when cold same thing.

When I did my head gaskets I was planning to change the orings on the injectors but the gasket set didn't have the 16 small orings I needed on those. It showed it as included in the set but they were not in there and I was already shorted 6 head bolts and had to email them to send those and got tired of fooling around with having to keep trying to get what I bought.. So didn't do the o-rings. Wish I had now. I hate it when people don't just send what you buy! I won't say who it was cause I'm sure it was just an oversight and they are well respected on this forum. I emailed them about the o-rings after the fact and they never even replied. I will say they will be my last choice in vendors from here out. I guess you could say I am UN-LUCKY.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 07-04-2014 at 11:19 AM.
  #7  
Old 07-04-2014 | 11:15 AM
dusty1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 5,794
Likes: 210
From: dallas texas
Default

Gotcha, I had to order some extra stuff too. Same set, I'm sure.
 
  #8  
Old 07-06-2014 | 10:13 AM
RicketyTick's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Default

Still haven't had time to check my fuel pressure, hopefully I can do that soon. So what is it supposed to read? do I test cold with just the key on and pump has ran for a second? or after it is cranked and running? Do I leave the fuel pressure gauge connected and turn the engine off to see if it leaks down? haven't checked the fuel pressure on anything since I rebuilt my SBC several years back and forgot the exact procedure.
 
  #9  
Old 07-06-2014 | 10:15 PM
RicketyTick's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Default

Man I've got to check my fuel pressure tomorrow. This thing is getting worse instead of better. Now I have to spin it longer even when left sitting for only a couple hours.

Is there any other reasons it would be hard to start? or not start right up in half a second like it used to? runs perfect soon as it starts.

Has new plugs, magnacore wires, new crank sensor and all that good stuff.

When I first got done with the headgaskets it cranked fine and now it seems to be getting a little worse everyday.

shoulda rebuilt the injectors when I had it torn down. Somebody told me that but I was in a hurry now I guess I will probably have to pull the upper intake and rebuild the injectors. maybe I can order the $25 rebuild kit from fleabay and try that.
 

Last edited by RicketyTick; 07-06-2014 at 11:48 PM.
  #10  
Old 07-07-2014 | 11:46 AM
RicketyTick's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 1,125
Likes: 24
Default

Not getting any injector codes or system circuit malfunction codes or misfire codes or lean codes. no codes at all but still hard to start.
 


Quick Reply: Slow Cold Start



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:18 AM.